The Year End Round Up or The Bits of 2016 That Weren't a Catastrophe

Oy vey, you guys. What a year, huh? What an incredibly horrific, festering open sore of a year. At this point, it seems like just opening the news is tempting fate. It's like the whole year has been this game of Whack-A-Mole and we're the moles.

But, I think all of us had some good times too. They probably weren't international events, but for each of us there were some really enjoyable moments of 2016 that, if we take a moment to remember, keep the year from being a complete disaster. For myself and my husband, the highlights of 2016 were the new places we had the opportunity to visit. Of the past 5 years, this one was the most enjoyable for travel. Every new place was beautiful, welcoming, and inspiring. They made us stop in our tracks and pull the car over. They introduced us to new flavors and music. They brought us great conversations and lots of laughs. And, of course, they inspired tonst of photography. They basically made this year bearable. Without them, it would have been a long slog through days of frustration, loneliness, and boredom punctuated by the worst news headlines we could imagine short of "Half of Planet Earth Fell Off Overnight and Spirals Off Towards Sun." As our fifth year of living in Europe comes to a close, once again it is the travel which makes everything better. So, without further ado, here are our favorites from this year:

1. The Jaw Dropper
I don't know if I will ever be able to put the magic of Iceland into words. Lots of places are overrated in travel guides, TV shows, and on blogs. Iceland is not. It is just as beautiful in real life as it is in the movies. Obviously, there was zero chance that Iceland was going to be a visual disappointment. From waterfalls to glaciers to ice covered beaches to lava fields to the incredible northern lights, every view was like nothing seen before. It was a visual feast. Even Reykjavik with its brightly painted buildings and eclectic scene was fascinating to explore. There is seriously no place like it on earth. Our trip there was no where near long enough and getting back to soak up some more is definitely on the itinerary. However, I am so grateful we had the chance to experience it at least once.

2. The Dark Horse
The large German cities in our part of the country aren't particularly interesting places, in my opinion. They were mostly all flattened during the war and rebuilt to either look the way they did before or just rebuilt without much of a plan at all (Frankfurt is the perfect example). They're ok, but honestly if you've seen one, you've pretty much seen them all. They all have the same restaurants- 305 German ones serving "local specialities"(which is basically pork, potatoes, or noodles prepared in a different shape and served with a slightly different sauce from the other regions'), döner shops, an Irish pub, various Asian places of varying quality, pizza shops, and then one or two outlier ethnic restaurants with a good TripAdvisor reputation. There's always an Altstadt with one or two cathedrals, Rathaus, and pedestrian area. There's always the same stores and probably a City Gallery mall. They're very interesting for maybe the first year of living here, but after a while a visit to, say, Stuttgart sounds about as thrilling as heading to Columbus, OH for the weekend. It's something to do, but you pretty much know what you're going to get. I expected nothing remarkable from Dresden. Nothing. It was chosen purely because we had passed through on trains headed elsewhere and the skyline looked unique. A unique skyline means a chance for some good shooting, and perhaps the promise that a trip there would feel more like taking a trip somewhere completely new.

However, Dresden was unique. And, you know what? It was a good different. Today, Dresden is probably most famous for the horrific bombing it suffered in 1945. By now most of the buildings of the Altstadt have been rebuilt, but there are still sections that are being excavated. Dresden's unique earlier history as a center for arts, learning, and wealth means that its buildings are akin to something you might see in Paris or Belgium. The architecture is truly magnificent and was a pleasure to photograph. Of course, it still had the malls and shops and restaurants you find all over the People's Republic, but there was plenty there which can't be found anywhere else and is worth taking a look at. It didn't just have a slightly interesting center, it had a stunning one. I'm so thankful we saw that skyline from the train and decided to stop.

3. The Show Stealer
One thing I learned this year was to stop underestimating the little guy. Lisbon had been on my list since we lived in Luxembourg. We lived near a working class neighborhood with a large Portuguese population.  They were the only folks on the block who didn't treat us with contempt. Because of that, I decided that we should visit Lisbon.

It was a very good decision. All I knew about it was that it was beautiful, the people were nice, and the food was supposed to be good. It was all true, and then some. The people of Lisbon were by far the kindest, most generous people we encountered on our travels. For a city that has been enduring an ongoing financial crisis, we never felt unsafe. When I had to go to the hospital I was expecting to undergo one of the year's low points, but instead I was overwhelmed by the sympathetic, helpful, and most caring medical staff I've ever met. Ever.

Yes, the food was amazing too. We never ate better this year. To top it off, it was the most photogenic city we visited this year as well. But, it was the people that made Lisbon our favorite city of 2016. If Lisbon had just been a rubble heap, it would have still been worth visiting to get to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Portuguese. We were absolutely blown away and were genuinely sad to fly home.

4. The All Rounder
Oh, Ireland. It had been a long time since I'd been there, but while specific memories of that first trip had faded, I knew that Ireland had everything we could possibly want in a destination- stunning landscapes, a plethora of interesting sights, great food, and fabulous people. On returning this year, I was happy to know that I was right on all counts. There are few places in the world that are as enjoyable to visit as Ireland. It has that magnificent landscape of natural wonder, dotted with captivating ruins and castles. Even on a rainy day, it is gorgeous. This trip was probably my most satisfying photographically this year. With our own car, we could explore and get a little lost. No matter where we ended up I came across something to photograph.

Of course, we never went hungry. There was fresh seafood on the coast and hearty meals inland. Pints were always on hand, and with it came conversation. We're a bit starved of that here in Germany, so that week in Ireland made up for the whole year. We talked with tavern owners, cabbies, AirBnB hosts, bar keeps, distillery workers, waitresses, and whoever was next to us at the bar. We talked about everything from cars, to Cleveland basketball (which was the big sports news at the time), their cousins in California, my Irish great-grandpa, the ins and outs of Irish Whiskey, history, exploration, and then, inevitably, politics (Brexit occurred halfway through the trip). It was fantastic. Absolutely fantastic. Ok, Brexit was definitely not fantastic, sorry.  I meant the conversations. I don't think I've ever been so appreciative of a people who are known for their gift of gab.

The scenery is meant to be photographed and there was great food and conversation. I really don't need much more from a place.  If that's all you really need too, then get yourself to Ireland.

And with that, I'm signing off for the rest of the year! We're headed to Venice for the week for some rest, good eating, and hopefully some good shooting too. Then, we'll be all set for what 2017 can chuck at us. If this was the last year we had to see some more of this beautiful world, I won't complain. It was a true gift.

I hope all of you had something to be thankful for from 2016 too. We have no idea what is around the corner, but my wish is that the end of this year brings you some peace and a little joy too.

Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!
CG

Shooting Iceland Part II: The Aurora

Unbelievably, it's been almost a month since we were in Iceland.  I figured by the time I got to this post, I'd finally have a hand on how to talk about our night with the aurora.  I'm afraid I don't.  I take comfort in knowing that this is a common problem for those who have witnessed it, but I'm worried that this post isn't going to do the experience much justice.

After two nights in Iceland, we hadn't had a single opportunity to catch the aurora.  The night we came in on the plane there was a blizzard and the next two nights were completely overcast.  I kept telling myself that the aurora was a bonus, and that thus far the trip was a total success.  Even though I was well aware that catching the aurora wasn't a guarantee for the trip and I was trying to be as pessimistic as possible about our chances so as not to be totally gutted if we never saw it, it was still nagging on me.  The reason to come in Winter was to partake in the ice tours, but also to have a chance to catch the lights.  If we didn't, we were going to be bummed. There was no way around it.  At around 1:00am after getting back from our two day southern coast tour, I sat in bed looking at our schedule and forecast.  It was obvious that we had one shot to catch the aurora on this trip and it was going to Easter Sunday night.

I went to the website of Reykjavik Excursions which was advertised on the reception desk of our hotel.  They still had a couple slots open for Easter, the price was good, and the forecast was calling for crystal clear skies.  My husband was already sound asleep, but I nudged him awake telling him that I had found a bus that would take us out to the lights and I wanted to book it.  He enthusiastically replied that he was down with the plan then went back to sleep.  I wasn't surprised when he was completely baffled the next morning as I reminded him that we had to catch the bus that night to see the lights.  He didn't remember a thing about the conversation at 1:00am.  For him, it was like I had booked a surprise.

After a full day of wandering on a mellow Easter day in Reykjavik, we went back to our hotel, changed into our cold weather gear, and waited for the minibus that would shuttle us to the big tour bus at the depot outside of downtown.  Once again, we marveled at the efficiency of Icelandic tourism companies.  For such a laid back people, they had scheduling and logistics down to a science.  The tour left the depot at 10:00pm.  It was a packed bus full of tourists from all over Reykjavik, ranging from excited to downright exhausted.  We were joined by an enthusiastic guide who spent the ride out of the city giving us all the information one could possibly have on the auroras- the science, the differences from place to place, and the different types of displays (clouds, ribbons, rain, etc). Lastly she explained how to get a photograph of them.  Unfortunately, this information was way too late for 95% of the group.

So you aren't one of the people groaning on a tour bus at the news your photographs haven't a chance of looking decent, here's what you need to know if you want to get a usable shot of the aurora.

1. You need a tripod.
You will need to take an exposure of about 30 seconds in length and there's no way you can get that handheld.  Also, get a shutter release cable or a remote shutter release.  This is not the time to rely on a smartphone app.

2.  You need a camera with manual control.
Sorry, smartphone users, if the aurora isn't super, super bright you won't be able to capture it successfully.  The way to get those lights to show up in an image is through a long exposure time, a wide aperture, and a high ISO.  So, you need a camera that has manual mode so you can set it up yourself for these conditions.  If you haven't shot outside of Automatic mode before, start practicing before you try on the Aurora.  You don't want to waste time (and warmth) trying to figure out how to change your camera settings.  Also, you'll probably want to use manual focus.  You will be shooting where it is really dark, so automatic focus will probably struggle.

3.  You need a camera that has high ISO capabilities.
Full frame isn't necessary, just make sure your sensor is four thirds or larger.  But, check to make sure the camera you're going to use actually performs well at high ISO levels 3200+.  Read reviews.  Look at sample images.  Not all sensors are created equal.

4.  You need a good lens.
Don't bother with a lens that doesn't have a max aperture of f/2.8 or lower. Preferably, you want it at f/2.  You probably won't need a zoom lens in this instance; auroras are meant to be shot wide.  So, if you have a wide angle prime this is its time to shine.  But, a high quality wide angle zoom will be just fine too.

5.  You need a flashlight or headlamp with a red beam.
It takes about 10 minutes for your eyes to adjust to the dark and any infiltration of white or blue light (car headlights, camera and phone LCDs) with destroy the adjustment your eyes made.  The only type of light that won't screw your eyes up is red.  Let folks laugh, you will be the only one out there that can see anything.

6.  You need to know how to use your camera.
This seems like a given, but there were a lot of people on that tour who suddenly realized that they had no idea what they were doing and spent the time staring into a menu instead of the most glorious display in nature.  That's just sad.  Don't be that person.

Ok, so back to the bus.  It wasn't long after we got beyond the lights of Reykjavik that the guide directed us to look out the bus window (for once we happened to be on the correct side of the bus).  A huge ribbon of green was starting to appear ever so faintly across the sky.  The guide got really excited.  This was going to be a good night.  The driver found a gravel road a few minutes later and pulled in, along with another bus and about every other car that happened to be on that road at that moment.  The guide gave us reflective snap bracelets (making this child of the 80's very pleased) so she wouldn't lose us in the dark.  Then we all disgorged from the bus.  It was madness for about 5 minutes.  The display of the lights was far more intense and vivid than I expected, and by the sounds of it, the guide wasn't quite believing how bright it was either.  There was some jostling and tourists clambered around in the dark, sinking up to their knees sometimes in the snowdrifts.  Those of us with tripods tried to get out in front of the crowd so we wouldn't get the masses in the shots and would have a little space to ourselves.

I had already got the settings ready before we left the hotel and got the camera on the tripod during the ride out.  It was a good thing too.  It was bloody, bloody cold.  I'm not sure how cold, but the wind was pretty strong and it didn't take long for my hands to start going numb, even with gloves on.  We're from Northeast Ohio, where the Winter temps regularly dip to 0F or below.  My time living in more mild Bavaria may have made me a wuss, or it was hovering somewhere around 5F with the windchill. I kept the tripod low to the ground so I could block the wind with my body.  My shutter release cable is mercifully plastic and long enough that I could pull it into my coat pocket, but I still had to take my hands out in order to focus the lens.  I use fingerless gloves that transform into mittens because I need the dexterity to feel the focus ring.  It only took a few minutes of messing around with the focus ring on the metal lens for the first signs of frost nip to start.  I didn't think about it too much though, because what we were seeing pretty much pushed all other thoughts out of our minds.

We knelt in the snow as the colors changed from yellow green to deep green and back with little hints of pink and red every once in a while.  I snapped away, trying my best to stay in the moment while still managing to capture the display.

There is nothing you can do to prepare for photographing the aurora.  It's not like portrait photography; you can't just practice on your family.  It's not like landscape photography; you can't just practice in your local park.  It's not even like regular night photography; what you're witnessing doesn't happen every night all over the world in a dark place.  Unless you are blessed to live in a place where the aurora occurs, there is no way to practice before you go out for the shot.  If you're lucky your visit will have a couple clear nights so you can get a few chances to practice your technique, but there's no way you can predict that.

The most common display of the aurora is a faint cloud, barely perspective to the human eye.  The display we were given on Easter night was far more intense, bright, rippling, and massive.  I was elated, overwhelmed, and, yes, the emotions were high.  If my eyes weren't already tearing up from the cold, I probably would have gotten teary anyway.  At the most I had hoped just to see the cloud aurora, this was more than I could have dreamed to witness.  We kept saying to each other, "Look at this!  Look at this! Can't you believe this!?!"  The rest of the group was going pretty nuts too.  But, one by one, they started to climb back into the bus.  It was just too cold, and they soon gave up trying to capture it with their phones.  A few of us remained out there with our tripods through the whole time, with just a 5 minute retreat to thaw our faces.  There was no way I could sit on the bus.  My fingers were killing me, but this could be the only chance we have in our lives to see this amazing event.

All in all, the preparation I had done beforehand had served me well.  I made adjustments here and there as the lights intensified or dimmed, but for the most part it was going smoothly for my first time photographing the aurora.  The hardest part was focusing.  Like I mentioned above, it was far too dark to rely on automatic focus.  The spot where the bus had taken us was perfect for seeing the lights, but there wasn't anything bright enough to focus the lens on.  I settled on a bright star, but discovered that my teared up eyes had played some tricks on me and things weren't as sharp as I thought.  I had more success as time passed, but it was probably the hardest part of shooting (besides the freezing part).  Ideally, there would be something on the horizon like a light or a building to focus on, but we were in a stark landscape.  The wind was also a bit of an issue, it caused just enough vibration a few times to cause blurring.  Also, shivering wreaked a bit of havoc.  As I got colder I had a harder time being deliberate with my movements, and clearing bumped the tripod a couple of times.

It wasn't easy, not by a long shot, but it was totally worth it.  It was the most incredible thing I have ever seen, it was the coldest I have ever been.  It was one of the most rewarding moments behind a camera.

Ok, so what did I do to get these shots?  I used the X-T1 with the 16-55mm lens because the lens gets a max of f/2.8 and weather sealing is a must when the temps are this low.  I had it mounted on good old Brian from Three Legged Thing.  I opened the lens all the way and usually took an exposure between 20-30secs.  Any longer and you start to get start trails.  ISO was set at 1600 for the most part, I did raise it a touch when the lights became dimmer.  I actually didn't do too much to these shots in post.  I edited them in Photoshop RAW, to reduce the noise that is inevitable with a higher ISO.  I also lifted the snow in the foreground in most of the shots (thanks to Fujifilm's excellent dynamic range).  Are they the greatest aurora shots out there? No. I'm a novice at shooting them, but I'm totally satisfied at the outcome.  I certainly wouldn't pass up a chance to shoot them again.

My husband demonstrating our awe of the scene before us, holding very still.
That wasn't easy.

Like I said in the last post, this trip was intended to be one of several.  We'll go back for a summer and, if it works out, will return for another winter trip.  For that, we wouldn't use a tour to see the lights again.  They definitely got us there, and it was great having the information from the guide, but the location wasn't the most exciting.  I'd like to be able to set up somewhere with a good focus point or a stunning foreground.  Also, it would be nice to get away from the roads.  There were a lot of headlights to contend with and several cars that had gotten themselves in accidents or stuck because it was too crowded in that area.  But, those are minor things I would change.  This was, without a doubt, the highlight of our trip.  It is a highlight of all our travels.  As long as I live, I'll never forget the dancing lights over the snowscape (something a still photograph will never properly capture).  I'll never forget being so overwhelmed by such intense beauty that I didn't notice I had lost feeling in my hands.  I'll never forget being brought to my knees, reminded that we are really just insignificant creatures with no comprehension of the magnitude of this universe and this planet.  I'll never forget it.