Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Project: #GlimpsesofHome

Tomorrow morning my husband and I are boarding a flight to the USA and will be back home in Northeast Ohio for about two weeks.  We usually do this once a year to see family, visit the dentist, see our GP, touch base with our banker, and catch up with friends.  It's a hectic time, no matter how we try to make it as un-hectic as possible.  As the years pass, and this December will mark 5 years in Europe, our home leave trip grows in importance.  Even though we often travel to a new and exciting location once a month, that visit to humble Northeast Ohio is our favorite journey of the year.  For us, the day before the trip has the excitement of Christmas Eve.  Touching down at CLE airport, getting in the rental car, and swinging onto Rt. 480 E is like descending the stairs on Christmas Day.  We can barely contain our excitement.

For those that have never lived abroad for a long period of time, this probably doesn't make much sense.  Isn't living in Europe a dream come true? How can your grungy hometown with its abandoned factories, strip malls, high crime rates, and blighted neighborhoods compare?  Sure, on paper Akron falls short when stacked next to the picturesque village on the Main where we've been living for almost three years.  But, you know what?  It's Home.  Home, no matter where that is, will always have an edge over the most beautiful places on earth.

Usually during these trips I take a lot of pictures.  I generally don't do much with them except to document another magical home leave trip.  Last year, I did manage to get out a couple of days for some more traditional shooting which you can see here and here.

This year, I've decided to do a photo project during the trip.  It's part personal project, part documentary.  Every day, like always, I'll be taking photographs, but this year I'll be sharing many more with you!  As long as WiFi permits, I'll post two photographs to Instagram a day- one of my usual images that are posted daily, and one under the tag #GlimpsesofHome. Images under that tag will be of something or somewhere that is unique about Akron (or a location nearby) and it will probably have a little story with it too.  The goal of the project is to highlight what makes Akron and its environs so special to us, and why that area is worth visiting just as much as the other locations I've photographed in Europe.  Obviously, the biggest draw personally is the relationships we have there.  But, there are countless things about Northeast Ohio that make it special and worthy.  I'd like to show you some of them.  They won't all be scenic, so I ask you to bear with the variety of images I'll be posting.  Home is where our culture comes from.  It's people, food, music, common ground, language, art, and environment.  Our home is a typical small American city.  It's had its struggles, heck, it still has struggles.  But, it also has a lot of magic.  Slowly but surely, that magic is growing and things are changing.  We see it every year.  The place has soul.  Through this project, I'd like you to get a glimpse of that.

So, tune into Instagram to follow my #GlimpsesofHome project for the next two weeks!  Too often we focus on where we've been or where we're headed to next.  Sometimes it's best to turn our attention to where we're from.


Thursday, August 11, 2016

Halftime

I love August.  Well, I mean I love August in Germany.  I don't remember it being particularly pleasant in Ohio due to insane heat, the usual drought, and the sense of melancholy that comes with the approach of Labor Day and the end of summer all together.  However, here, even if you have to go to work, it feels like a month of vacation.  Germans, by law, have to have 30 days vacation.  Some can even manage to eke out a little more depending on other variables.  Some choose to spread those 30 days out through the year.  Others take a big lump all at once, usually in the summer, and head off to the Alps or the beach for a couple of weeks.  Oh, and they have to take these days according to the law.  The worker certainly has a pretty sweet deal here, in my opinion.  This, of course, doesn't apply to people like us who are expats with contracts from a non-German company.  Personally, I think companies should give their expats the same vacation days as their native co-workers during their assignment because being the only person working most of the year is pretty taxing.

On the plus side, during the month of August a lot of people are out of town on vacation so being at home actually feels like a holiday too.  The shops are less crowded, no one is is around to dig up the roads (or, unfortunately, fill in the holes they made in July), and the people who are around are just a bit more chilled out.  It's really nice.  The weather is pretty great too.  While we've been here the heat always hits in July and then tapers off come August.  This year it's been downright chilly, almost Autumn-like.  So, here I am sitting on our balcony with a view of the river as I punch out this update.  The only sounds are church bells and birds.  It's a pretty sweet deal for us too.

We've always treated the month of August as a holiday too, just in a different way.  We don't go out of town at all.  With everyone coming and going from the office, this month is a perfect chance for my husband to get a lot done at work.  It's also a chance to get some things sorted out and planned for the rest of the year.  We use the weekends to get things done around the house that we've been putting off, doing some cycling, and exploring the local area a bit more.  I too have been taking August off from a lot of photography, preventing a burn out that would no doubt hit if I ran around at breakneck pace all year.  I might do a little on the weekends or within a quick bike ride of the house, but for the most part I just focus on catching up on some reading, doing a little digging through whatever backlog I have, updating the Zazzle shop, or organizing my files.  It's nice to put down the camera for a bit and see the world with my eyes for awhile.  Keeps me sane.

I decided to kick off this break a little early this year with our trip to Lake Como last month.  Well, circumstances decided a little bit for me, but I'll get to that in a bit.  My husband and I decided to stay at our favorite hotel to celebrate our 10 year wedding anniversary in July.  We stayed there in 2013 on the way back from a trip to the Riviera.  We were only there for two nights on that trip, but we fell head over heels in love with the place and promised ourselves and the proprietors that we would return.

View from hotel at dinner.  We decided to climb it later that week. 

So, for this trip we decided to spend 8 days there.  Our plan was to do a little photography, a lot of hiking, and even more relaxing.  For once, this was going to be a proper vacation.  Strolls, naps, and afternoon ice cream cones were going to be regular occurrences.  We never take trips like this (the last one was in 2013 to the Riviera, actually), and we definitely needed one.  It's been a long year.

I did want to get out a couple of times for some early morning shooting because, obviously, we were in a prime landscape location.  However, we discovered upon our first attempt that the hotel locks the doors until 6:00am, thus trapping us well after the July sunrise.  At first I was really upset and contemplated asking if we could make special arrangements.  But, I realized that it was actually a good thing.  We both wanted to make this trip more about spending time together and relaxing than getting up at 4:00am and rushing to a location every morning.  I was going to be ok.  It turned out to be exactly what we needed.  We both felt 10x better after the trip, relaxed and ready to face the rest of the year.  I imagine the dinners at the hotel restaurant every night had something to do with that.  The owner totally spoiled us with perfect homemade pastas and local specialities every night.  It was pure heaven, even on the days it rained.

View from the top of the mountain.  Blessed with a clear day
after quite the climb up there.
I really think breaks are important.  Athletes have off seasons, kids get summer vacations, why shouldn't creatives step back for a bit once a year too?  Sometimes I get so wrapped up in photography, I can't even contemplate something else.  Laundry can pile up, I don't get enough sleep, and the cats come in my office periodically to make sure I'm not dead (ok, they may just be there to remind me it's their dinner time).  I admit, I get obsessive.  So, stepping back for a short time is definitely something I need to do.  While we were in Italy, not being able to worry about getting the next shot or chasing the light everyday forced me to focus on the trip and have a really great time.   We did do a lot of hiking and walking, plus we climbed a 8,560ft mountain on a whim.  We weren't exactly sitting with an ice cream all day every day.  But, not having the next shot goal permeating all my thoughts made it possible to have a really relaxing time.  It wasn't work, it was vacation.  You know what?  I was totally ok.  It was ok not to get shots every day, or only have a couple of the two of us (and The Dog) on the card for a change.  It was like coming up for air.

So, I do have a couple mini projects for the rest of the month, but we don't have another photo trip scheduled until October.  In the meantime, check back at my Zazzle shop regularly because I am using this time to add some new products.  If you're already in the market for a 2017 calendar, they are now available!  Next month, is the hallowed home leave trip back to Akron, so you can expect some more cat photos and misc hometown whatnot in my feed pretty soon.  But for now, I'm going to sit back and enjoy this lovely view we've been blessed with, read a little more of Susan Sontag's On Photography, and maybe think about working in the garden.  Maybe.

Oh, I almost forgot!  The name of our favorite hotel is Hotel Europa.  Remember, it's the one in Sorico at the northern tip of Lake Como.  If you are passing that way, there isn't a better place to stay.  At least make sure that you stop for dinner!

Friday, August 5, 2016

5 Do's & 5 Don'ts for Traveling in Ireland


Ok, I'm really sorry this has taken me so long to get up on the blog.  I'm not exactly sure where this summer is going, but it is going fast and I could almost swear there are less hours in a day than there used to be.  Anyway, finally, and without further ado, here are my tips for traveling in Ireland!


1.  DO: Rent a Car
For those of us who have spent our entire lives driving on the right side of the road, getting behind the wheel of a right hand drive car and beginning a journey of opposites can be a little daunting.  Ok, it's really daunting.  However, the best way to see the country of Ireland is with a car.  There are plenty of tour buses to take, but you're going to be at their mercy.  Trust me, this is a country you will want to explore on back roads.

It's a little nerve wracking at times, and those backroads are narrow and have about 0% visibility, but you will not regret renting the car.  Other options? Besides tour buses, you're mostly left with taxis in the countryside and they aren't always available. There are some local transport buses, but they may not go where you want depending on where that is.  Bicycles?  We saw plenty of people going that route, but honestly you couldn't pay me to do that.  Like I said, the roads are really narrow and you'll be lucky if you can see what's coming ahead.  Locals know the roads well and drive pretty quickly, tourists don't and drive pretty erratically.  Your odds of being run off into a hedge or run over seem to be a bit high during the summer in the Irish countryside.  But, it's totally up to you!

One of the AirBnBs we booked. Absolutely lovely.
2.  DONT: Book Hotels
Ok, you can.  As far as I know there isn't anything wrong with Irish hotels.  But, if you want a more personal experience book B&B's or, even better, AirBnB's.  I know I've talked about AirBnB before, but I'd like to reiterate how fantastic that system is.  For the price of a hotel room, and usually less, you can get an entire apartment or house.  We love them.  On most of our trips we need a break from restaurant food, so it's nice having a kitchen at our disposal.  As tasty as pub food is, a little bit goes a long way.  You too may welcome the chance to whip up your own dinner a few times during the trip.  The best part of AirBnB, however, is that usually you get to meet and chat with the owner.  This is invaluable.  These folks have already opened their property to you, so more than likely they want to pass on of lots of insider information.  The Irish, of course, are known for their hospitality and gift for gab, so more than likely you'll have plenty of recommendations to keep you busy during your trip and local stories to file away into your notebook.  If you're lucky you may even get invited to family events! You never know!

3.  DO: Order Some Seafood
When most people think of Irish food, images of soda bread, shepherd's pie, and boxtys might come to mind.  But, you know, Ireland is an island and you're never too far from the coast.  That means fantastic fresh seafood is always available somewhere.  If you happen to come across a fisherman's pub near the coast, do pop in for some fish and chips.  More than likely, that fish came in off the boat that morning.



4.  DON'T: Stay Too Long in Dublin
Dublin is a great city.  Definitely.  But, sacrifice time in the capital for more time in the countryside.  The countryside of Ireland is jaw dropping.  This is no exaggeration.  It truly is jaw dropping, especially on the western coast.  County Kerry is probably one of the more popular tourist regions in the country, but if you stay outside the main tourist towns like Killarney, you'll leave the buses and crowds behind in no time.  Explore the back roads, get a little lost.  You'll never know when an amazing view, castle ruin, or herd of livestock on the road will be around the corner.



5.  DO: Go to the Pubs
Finding a good pub is getting trickier and trickier these days as tourism continues to rise, but they're out there.  There are two kinds of pubs, the ones with food menus and the one's without.  If you're where there are a lot of tourists, the ones without food are your best bet for catching the local scene.  Go up to the bar, order a pint, and before you know it you'll either be talking to the barman about the history of the town or the guy next to you about anything from his cousin who lives in Indianapolis to, well, anything.  The Irish love to chat, and they are a pleasure to chat with.  Trust me, a week or more in Ireland does wonders for the soul that usually resides stoic Germany.

Another pub tip:  Look for ones that have a lot of hardware store goods in the windows.  Back in the day, the pub was a place to buy your animal feed, motor oil, and grab a pint with your mates (sometimes leading one to forget the feed and oil).  They don't work that way anymore, but the ones that still honor that heritage generally are pubs that have been there a good long while and they have the better local scene.  It's kinda like being in a episode of Cheers or something.  If you're lucky, someone will start playing a little music in the corner, and they'll be joined by someone else, and before you know it you are immersed in an experience about as Irish as it can get.


6.  DON'T: Count on the Weather
Irish weather is pretty notorious for its fickleness.  If you're a landscape photographer it can be pretty frustrating if you're counting on clear days.  You shouldn't count on getting a lot of them.  But, bring along a good weather sealed camera, pack a set of waterproof clothes, and roll with it.  Misty scenes are pretty evocative of Ireland.  You may be surprised with what you get, if you're willing to work with the weather.

If you're not worried so much about photographs, then throw on that rain coat and accept the weather!  It is a part of the Irish experience!



7.  DO: Order A Pint of Guinness.  Then, Order Something Else.
Not having a Guinness in Ireland is like going to France and not having wine, or Germany and not having a pilsner.  Guinness is about as symbolic of Ireland as the harp and the shamrock.  Of course, there is a proper way to have a Guinness, and it's all about patience.  Order it at the bar, but then head to your seat.  Pouring a Guinness takes a bit of time.  When it is delivered, let it rest for a bit until it's all settled out.  Then enjoy!

But, there are plenty of other Irish beers to try, and you should.  The selection changes depending on where you are, but you're usually guaranteed to have another stout to choose from, red ales, brown ales, and maybe even an IPA.  Like the most of the world, the Craft Beer movement is going strong in Ireland!



8.  DON'T:  Visit the Guinness Storehouse
Ok, this may ruffle some feathers.  But, the Guinness Storehouse is, um, kinda awful.  It could be us, or the day, but going down that rabbit hole is my only regret from the trip.  It's a Guinness themed funhouse, packed to the gills with people who haven't a clue why they are there except the guidebook told them it is a must-see.  You know what?  It isn't.  It's just a big honking tourist trap.  It's crowded, gaudy, loud, crazy sticky, and overpriced.  I've never been a theme park person, but I imagine this is exactly what they are like, except the theme is Guinness instead of a cartoon mouse. You want a pint of Guinness?  Then go to a pub around the corner and order one.  You want novelty Guinness souvenirs?  You can pick that stuff up in any shop, or even the airport!  You want to learn about the brewing process, then take another brewery tour anywhere else.



9.  DO:  Visit a Whiskey Distillery
Irish whiskey is just as culturally significant as Guinness, but chances are you haven't been on a distillery tour before.  I recommend skipping Jameson.  It's a flashy place, but you need to book ahead and it's pretty crowded.  Also, their bar was a bit harried.  I recommend driving out to Tullamore D.E.W.  It's a new facility, but a far more relaxed and intimate tour than you'll get anywhere else.  Our guide knew the distillation process backwards and forwards, happily answered questions, and was a real pleasure to spend an hour with.  No booking ahead required, and you get a tasting at the end of the tour.  It's definitely worth the drive!



10.  DON'T: Get Hoodwinked by the Tourist Boards
Ireland is a bit odd in how they handle tourist sights.  Some things are free and open 24/7, other things, like the Cliffs of Moher, have set hours and high fees.  Do a little research before your trip so you don't end up shelling out money you shouldn't have to.  If you're into prehistoric ruins and castle ruins, there are plenty all over the landscape that you don't need a ticket for.  Most of the time, the free things are crowd free and in more beautiful locations.  One of the weirdest things to us was having to pay money to look at cliffs.  When it comes to the Cliffs of Moher, make sure you go on a clear day with low winds and then walk in along the trail route.  Don't fall for having to pay to park at the visitor center.  We made that mistake and only learned after the fact that the park doesn't actually close at 7:00pm.  Our car would be locked in at the lot, but if we had walked in we could stay as long as we liked to get good light for a photograph.  Also, on a good weather day, you can climb over the slate roof shingle barrier if you're careful.  Still stay well back from the edge (and for crying out loud don't sit on it!) because it is eroding.  But, there is plenty of clearly defined stable ground and it's worth standing on so you can actually see the cliffs.  I'm very short and really wouldn't have been able see much of anything without climbing over.  Sometimes you have to take a risk to see the view, especially if you just payed a bunch of money!

Do risk an hindered peek at the Cliffs of Moher, just don't be an idiot and sit on
the edge like those people!
Better yet, though, skip the Cliffs of Moher and visit any number of other cliff locations on the west coast instead.  They're just as spectacular and much cheaper!

There ya go! Ireland is definitely one of our favorite locations (I know I've been saying that a lot this year).  The Irish are a fantastic people and the countryside is absolutely stunning.  You won't regret making it your next travel destination!