The Year End Round Up or The Bits of 2016 That Weren't a Catastrophe

Oy vey, you guys. What a year, huh? What an incredibly horrific, festering open sore of a year. At this point, it seems like just opening the news is tempting fate. It's like the whole year has been this game of Whack-A-Mole and we're the moles.

But, I think all of us had some good times too. They probably weren't international events, but for each of us there were some really enjoyable moments of 2016 that, if we take a moment to remember, keep the year from being a complete disaster. For myself and my husband, the highlights of 2016 were the new places we had the opportunity to visit. Of the past 5 years, this one was the most enjoyable for travel. Every new place was beautiful, welcoming, and inspiring. They made us stop in our tracks and pull the car over. They introduced us to new flavors and music. They brought us great conversations and lots of laughs. And, of course, they inspired tonst of photography. They basically made this year bearable. Without them, it would have been a long slog through days of frustration, loneliness, and boredom punctuated by the worst news headlines we could imagine short of "Half of Planet Earth Fell Off Overnight and Spirals Off Towards Sun." As our fifth year of living in Europe comes to a close, once again it is the travel which makes everything better. So, without further ado, here are our favorites from this year:

1. The Jaw Dropper
I don't know if I will ever be able to put the magic of Iceland into words. Lots of places are overrated in travel guides, TV shows, and on blogs. Iceland is not. It is just as beautiful in real life as it is in the movies. Obviously, there was zero chance that Iceland was going to be a visual disappointment. From waterfalls to glaciers to ice covered beaches to lava fields to the incredible northern lights, every view was like nothing seen before. It was a visual feast. Even Reykjavik with its brightly painted buildings and eclectic scene was fascinating to explore. There is seriously no place like it on earth. Our trip there was no where near long enough and getting back to soak up some more is definitely on the itinerary. However, I am so grateful we had the chance to experience it at least once.

2. The Dark Horse
The large German cities in our part of the country aren't particularly interesting places, in my opinion. They were mostly all flattened during the war and rebuilt to either look the way they did before or just rebuilt without much of a plan at all (Frankfurt is the perfect example). They're ok, but honestly if you've seen one, you've pretty much seen them all. They all have the same restaurants- 305 German ones serving "local specialities"(which is basically pork, potatoes, or noodles prepared in a different shape and served with a slightly different sauce from the other regions'), döner shops, an Irish pub, various Asian places of varying quality, pizza shops, and then one or two outlier ethnic restaurants with a good TripAdvisor reputation. There's always an Altstadt with one or two cathedrals, Rathaus, and pedestrian area. There's always the same stores and probably a City Gallery mall. They're very interesting for maybe the first year of living here, but after a while a visit to, say, Stuttgart sounds about as thrilling as heading to Columbus, OH for the weekend. It's something to do, but you pretty much know what you're going to get. I expected nothing remarkable from Dresden. Nothing. It was chosen purely because we had passed through on trains headed elsewhere and the skyline looked unique. A unique skyline means a chance for some good shooting, and perhaps the promise that a trip there would feel more like taking a trip somewhere completely new.

However, Dresden was unique. And, you know what? It was a good different. Today, Dresden is probably most famous for the horrific bombing it suffered in 1945. By now most of the buildings of the Altstadt have been rebuilt, but there are still sections that are being excavated. Dresden's unique earlier history as a center for arts, learning, and wealth means that its buildings are akin to something you might see in Paris or Belgium. The architecture is truly magnificent and was a pleasure to photograph. Of course, it still had the malls and shops and restaurants you find all over the People's Republic, but there was plenty there which can't be found anywhere else and is worth taking a look at. It didn't just have a slightly interesting center, it had a stunning one. I'm so thankful we saw that skyline from the train and decided to stop.

3. The Show Stealer
One thing I learned this year was to stop underestimating the little guy. Lisbon had been on my list since we lived in Luxembourg. We lived near a working class neighborhood with a large Portuguese population.  They were the only folks on the block who didn't treat us with contempt. Because of that, I decided that we should visit Lisbon.

It was a very good decision. All I knew about it was that it was beautiful, the people were nice, and the food was supposed to be good. It was all true, and then some. The people of Lisbon were by far the kindest, most generous people we encountered on our travels. For a city that has been enduring an ongoing financial crisis, we never felt unsafe. When I had to go to the hospital I was expecting to undergo one of the year's low points, but instead I was overwhelmed by the sympathetic, helpful, and most caring medical staff I've ever met. Ever.

Yes, the food was amazing too. We never ate better this year. To top it off, it was the most photogenic city we visited this year as well. But, it was the people that made Lisbon our favorite city of 2016. If Lisbon had just been a rubble heap, it would have still been worth visiting to get to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Portuguese. We were absolutely blown away and were genuinely sad to fly home.

4. The All Rounder
Oh, Ireland. It had been a long time since I'd been there, but while specific memories of that first trip had faded, I knew that Ireland had everything we could possibly want in a destination- stunning landscapes, a plethora of interesting sights, great food, and fabulous people. On returning this year, I was happy to know that I was right on all counts. There are few places in the world that are as enjoyable to visit as Ireland. It has that magnificent landscape of natural wonder, dotted with captivating ruins and castles. Even on a rainy day, it is gorgeous. This trip was probably my most satisfying photographically this year. With our own car, we could explore and get a little lost. No matter where we ended up I came across something to photograph.

Of course, we never went hungry. There was fresh seafood on the coast and hearty meals inland. Pints were always on hand, and with it came conversation. We're a bit starved of that here in Germany, so that week in Ireland made up for the whole year. We talked with tavern owners, cabbies, AirBnB hosts, bar keeps, distillery workers, waitresses, and whoever was next to us at the bar. We talked about everything from cars, to Cleveland basketball (which was the big sports news at the time), their cousins in California, my Irish great-grandpa, the ins and outs of Irish Whiskey, history, exploration, and then, inevitably, politics (Brexit occurred halfway through the trip). It was fantastic. Absolutely fantastic. Ok, Brexit was definitely not fantastic, sorry.  I meant the conversations. I don't think I've ever been so appreciative of a people who are known for their gift of gab.

The scenery is meant to be photographed and there was great food and conversation. I really don't need much more from a place.  If that's all you really need too, then get yourself to Ireland.

And with that, I'm signing off for the rest of the year! We're headed to Venice for the week for some rest, good eating, and hopefully some good shooting too. Then, we'll be all set for what 2017 can chuck at us. If this was the last year we had to see some more of this beautiful world, I won't complain. It was a true gift.

I hope all of you had something to be thankful for from 2016 too. We have no idea what is around the corner, but my wish is that the end of this year brings you some peace and a little joy too.

Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!
CG

Travel Advisory for Photographers: Frankfurt International Airport

I'm neck deep in my photos from Lisbon so I'll be writing about that experience next time.  For now, let me say that Lisbon really should be on your must see list.  We were absolutely blown away, and if given the chance I'd fly back in a heartbeat (and seriously consider starting the process to relocate permanently).  But, more on that later.  Today, I'm going to write about flying with cameras.  Specifically, I want to share with you what it is like flying with cameras out of Frankfurt Airport, because, well, it's a pain.

We fly quite a bit, and this year we've been flying more than usual.  I really don't care for air travel, not because I have anything against planes or flying itself, but because airports are really unpleasant places.  Of course, the worst part of the whole thing is security.  Most of the problems stem from inconsistency and ignorance, inconsistency and ignorance on the part of airport security and just plain ignorance on the part of fellow passengers.  It all starts going downhill in the line, before anyone gets to the bins and scanners.  You know there's going to be trouble when the person in front of you has three bags and is wearing enough accessories and jewelry to open a boutique right there on the spot.  Then, surprise, surprise, they (because they have been living under a rock for 15 years) didn't know you can't take that half liter of water through, or that you need to take your computer out of the bag, and, oh, "you mean I have to take ALL the coins out of my pockets?"  That happens everywhere, no matter the airport.  It's just part of the flying experience.  But, what really screws the whole thing up  is that airport security protocols are different at every single airport, there's even a difference from line to line sometimes.  For those of us who are prepared and do know the rules, it's even more frustrating when for no reason whatsoever that airport has decided to add extra protocols without informing you.  What has been happening in Europe the last couple of years and, of course, the recent attack in Brussels has led to heightened security everywhere.  Of course, Frankfurt being one of the biggest international hubs in the world should take some extra precautions.  That's all well and good, but they don't tell you what they want.  So, fellow photographers and other people who carry several electronics on the plane with them, I will tell you.

First, a little information on what I pack.  I never, ever check my photo equipment.  It's no secret that checked bags aren't handled very well, and, unfortunately, stuff does go missing.  So, I pack everything to fit in the cabin, under the seat.  I use ThinkTank's Airport Essentials bag.  If you use a full DSLR size system, it's a great bag.  If you are running light or using mirrorless, it's the perfect bag.  I've packed it with two bodies, four lenses, a tripod, plus all the miscellaneous items and still had room to breathe.  When we went to the UK, I took one body, two lenses, the tripod, and everything else I needed for a weekend away in that bag.  I didn't need to check any luggage or break Lufthansa's one carry-on bag rule (no personal items permitted with these guys).  Now, for a summation of my experiences flying out of Frankfurt airport with this setup.

Last year, when we flew back to the States for Thanksgiving, I came up to the security line, pulled out my iPad and little bag of liquids, put them in their own bin, removed my hat and jacket, put those in another bin, and then put my bag in a third bin.  I didn't have anything in my pockets, I wasn't wearing jewelry, I didn't even wear a belt to the airport.  For that trip, I had packed one body, three lenses, the tripod, and all the other little bits.  Nothing was stacked in the bag.  The lenses and cameras were oriented sideways.  I was under the impression that cameras come through security pretty regularly and that the folks working the x-ray machine should be able to recognize what they are.  I went through the scanner, then received the usual extra pat down (because I'm always "randomly" chosen for that pleasure).  Then, I exited to wait for my stuff.  I was informed that my bag had been flagged for inspection.  I was called aside and had to open up my bag in front of the inspector.  He swabbed everything for chemical residue.  He had me explain what everything was, right down to what the lens pen does. Then a police officer came up, complete with automatic rifle, to do it all again.  They took down my information, stood around for a few minutes doing nothing but chatting about the weekend, then sent me on my way.  It was weird, sure, but it was only a week after the attacks in Paris.  They needed to be more cautious after a major attack in a European capital, I get it and that's fine.

Fast forward to last month when we flew to the UK.  Once again, I was prepared for all the published protocols.  I already pulled out the liquids and iPad before we got to the bins.  I did everything I was supposed to do.  No signs were posted anywhere that they needed people to do anything besides remove iPads or computers and liquids from their bags.  Then...The fellow overseeing my line, who seemed about 17, asked if I had removed all my electronics from the bag. "All my electronics?" I asked.
"Yes, if you have a camera remove that."
"Ok, I have a camera and a couple of lenses."
"Take those out."
I did so. "What about batteries, chargers, and stuff like that?"
"Those things too."
"Tripod?"
"Yes."
"So, basically remove everything from my bag?"
"Yes, I guess so.  It makes it easier to identify."
I followed his instructions, even the one about removing my deodorant from the bag (which isn't a liquid or a gel, btw) while refraining from making a crack about pulling out the packed underwear too.  I also didn't ask why they couldn't recognize what cameras look like in an x-ray.  But, on the positive side, I wasn't pulled aside after passing through the body scanner.  My bag was a mess and it took extra time to reorganize when it was all over, but I didn't have to talk to a cop about what a lens pen was.  It was a pain, but I chalked it up to an overzealous kid new to the job.  My husband, meanwhile, was in a different line and didn't have to remove anything from his bag, despite carrying phone chargers, solid deodorant, and a few other things similar to what I was carrying.

Fool me once, shame on you.  Fool me twice...

So, last week we were back at good old chaotic FRA to fly to Lisbon.  Once again, I was prepared.  Once again, nothing new was posted.  In preparation for a little persecution from the staff, I asked the woman running my line if it was ok that I had several items of camera gear in my bag.  She said it was fine.  I asked if I need to remove them.  She responded that I didn't.  Here's my bag:

This was the first time I stored my lenses like this. In the past they've been
stored sideways.  Lens orientation doesn't seem to make a difference.

I can't say I was totally surprised to see my bag whisked down the other belt that went to the inspection area.  This time the inspector kept my bag by him for a while, before finally allowing me access so I could give him my passport and Euro ID and then began the process of swabbing everything for chemical residue.  He copied my passport information onto a form (Germans prefer paper over computers) and then told me that a police officer needed to speak with me.  The cop took her time showing up, so the inspector, myself, and my husband got to stand awkwardly together for a while watching a bag being inspected in another line that clearly contained a rather large pocketknife according to the image on the x-ray screen.  Sigh. Apparently there are still people in the world that think bringing a knife in the cabin with them is totally ok.

The cop finally showed up and I went through the most intense grilling so far.  Where do I live? Why do I live here? Where does my husband work? What city is The Company located in? How long have we been here?  Where are we going?  What will we be doing there? Where in the States are we from?  I had to explain, yet again, what everything was.  I had to turn both cameras on.  I had to explain what a rain cover was.  The lens pen came up again. There is a guy who tried to bring a knife on board and I'm getting the third degree over camera equipment.  I don't know, maybe someone somewhere tried to hide something dangerous in a camera once, but I'm pretty sure that would have been publicized like the shoe bomb incident was and the protocols would have been changed and the public would have been informed.  For now, cameras are just cameras.  Furthermore, a quick scan of my passport would have pulled up all my information and would have answered the majority of her questions.  They also would have been able to see that I'm just a woman who travels with cameras for the obvious reason- to take photographs.  But, since they'd rather fill out paper forms than use computers, they didn't have access to the information they got from me last November.  They couldn't see that I fly in and out of FRA pretty regularly.  Folks, this is ridiculous.

Frankfurt International Airport is one of the most important travel hubs in the world.  Thousands of people pass through on a daily basis.  I find it very hard to believe I'm the only one who carries camera gear through security.  TSA in the USA states that people are selected at random for more thorough inspection, they are also clear that they can inspect whatever bags they want.  That's understood and is fine.  At Frankfurt, however, there is nothing random about these inspections.  If you are packing a lot of photo gear, you get flagged.  There is no reason why camera equipment should be given this level of scrutinization.  If it is packed properly and the staff was told and shown what it was, the x-ray should be enough.  It shouldn't matter whether someone is carrying one or three cameras in their carry-on, they're not regulated.  They are not a threat.  The only bit of photo equipment that is regulated (in the States, at least) are the batteries.  Strangely, never once has someone checked to see that I store mine properly.  For the record, I do.

You know, if German law enforcement has decided that there is a reason why photo equipment should be flagged, then the simple solution is to inform the public.  They need to post a protocol.  If you tell me you want it all out of the bag for security, fine.  I still think it's a little silly, but I'd much rather have the hassle of emptying my bag than the hassle of 1,000 questions, swabbing, and automatic guns.  Just tell me what you want, and I'll do it.  So far, at least, all the staff I've interacted with at Frankfurt Airport have been friendly and respectful, even downright apologetic at times.  I don't have any complaints with them personally, but their inconsistency, poor procedures, lack of communication to passengers, and over the top policies need to change.  This level of ridiculous scrutinization has occurred before too, long before the attacks in Paris and Brussels and when I haven't been carrying photo equipment.  We still laugh about the Neck Pillow Incident of 2011.  Frankfurt Airport Security clearly has had a bug up their bum for a long time. It is the only airport that I've experienced this in.  I've never been pulled aside at any other airport nor have I had to empty my bag of my photo gear, not in the United States, Iceland, the UK, Norway, Spain, or Portugal.  I think this problem is a German thing, maybe just a Frankfurt thing.

So, I've gone through the pain, but you don't have to.  If you're taking more than one camera into Frankfurt Airport Security (and possibly other airports in Germany), here's what I suggest.  First of all, arrive at the airport with plenty of time to spare just in case you do get held up in security. At the very least, open the bag and show the person monitoring the line what is in your bag.  If you can leave your bag open during the scan, that's even better.  Make sure nothing is stacked on top of each other so that everything is on the same plane visual in the image.  But, it seems the best solution is to remove bodies, lenses, tripods, batteries, and chargers, and put them in their own plastic bin.  If the people behind you get irritable, too bad.  If the security staff says you don't have to do that, ignore them.  Clearly, the right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing.  Airport security should not hassle you about properly packed photo equipment.  Unfortunately, we're at their mercy.  So, be cheerful and respectful, and bite your tongue.  Everyone will speak English if you ask them to, and to prevent confusion this is not the time to practice your German if you aren't basically fluent.

Most of us who fly want to follow the rules and get where we're going with as little confusion and delay as possible.  Frankfurt clearly has a policy regarding photo equipment, but you're left to figure out what it is as you go through the process.  It's hard to follow the rules if you aren't informed about what they are.  I hope this post helps those of you who may be traveling through Frankfurt with photo gear in the future.  If anyone has consistently experienced something similar at FRA or another airport, I'd be interested to hear about it.

Train Ride

Dresden Hbf
Camera X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 1/30, f/6.4, ISO1600

Our train was due to pull out at 12:00 sharp from track nine.  We arrived by foot to Dresden's main train station with plenty of time to spare, time to grab sandwiches at the Bäckerei and double check our ticket information with what was on the board.  Sandwiches and a couple bottles of Coke in hand, we enter the terminal of the station.  This is a station to be admired.  It is spotless, well marked, and airy, a far cry from the stations we usually find ourselves in.  Back in Frankfurt, you can't escape the feeling that you could be jumped at any moment which causes everyone to race around in a panicked and frantic state, eyes wide with fear.  But, this morning in Dresden, no one grasps our arms begging for spare coins, no one collides with us as they tear out of the station as fast as their legs will carry them.  In the corner of the lower terminal, a model railway sits under a Plexiglas display case.  A couple Euros will let you operated the mini world, but we're happy just to let it go at its own pace.  There's a small ruined castle on a hill, police arresting drunken brawlers at a lilliputian biergarten, construction workers standing in an accurate fashion around a road works site, a soviet era tire factory belches cotton smoke, and a tiny potbellied retiree sits smoking on a bench in front of his Schrebergarten.  This minuscule world under Plexiglas is part documentary, part satirical depiction of the world that will flash past our train windows in a short time.  While the whole installation appears to have been erected sometime during the 1960's, there's little within that wouldn't be familiar to today's passersby.  Apart from the models of the cars and the Soviet factory, its seems things haven't changed as much as we would think.

Track 9
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 20mm Exposure: 1/30, f/10. ISO1600

We climb the steps to the upper tracks and find track nine.  Our fellow travelers are already milling about the advertisement boards, vending machines, and benches.  Car 28 is going to be our home for the next 5 hours and that will supposedly end up in section D of the track.  I love how organized Deutsche Bahn can be when it really wants to.  The train rolls in promptly and we wait a few moments for some of its passengers to disembark.  Then we climb aboard.  We happened upon a convenient deal on tickets for this trip.  So, for the journey home we will be enjoying the plush seats and quiet repose of a first class car.  This is an ICE train, which will end its run in Frankfurt with only a few pauses in cities along the way.  This sort of ICE sports a dining car, free WiFi, and WC's that probably have paper towels and soap.  Even in an era far past the Golden Age of rail travel, there is still something very comforting and pleasing about a form of transport that speeds through the best parts of the countryside while still allowing you see it accompanied by the possibilities of fresh coffee, a cheese bun, and the ability to use a civilized bathroom without temporarily halting the journey.  On some trains the difference between first and second class is barely noticeable, but on a DB ICE it means you get a porter who offers to bring your drinks and most of the seats come paired with a table. Five hours on this train? I'd happily take 10!  Without any worries of transfers, a fresh blanket of snow outside, and a nice plush seat to settle into, I could happily ride this train for a very, very long time.

The train pushes away from the platform and we slowly begin to roll through that strange wasteland of cables and rails that make up the suburbs of a major rail station.  We pass the backside of the Dresden's famous Yenidze, the former tobacco factory built to look like a mosque.  Today it houses offices, but still appears quite out of place amidst the outskirts of Dresden.

Yenidze
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 28.9mm Exposure: 1/180, f/9, ISO1600

I snap some pictures of this bizarre, blighted environment. Derelict cement buildings of unknown purpose sit between the operational and abandoned rail lines.  Most are covered in graffiti, very few have windows.  They look like houses, but none appear to be in use.  However, as we pass the last one, I jump at the sight of a man in a sleeveless undershirt leaning out of a window (with no frame or glass) to smoke a cigarette.

Wasteland 

Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 19.6mm Exposure: 1/180, f/11, ISO16000

We finally pass into the suburbs of Dresden itself.   We glide through neighborhoods of apartments over small shops where we gaze in a voyeuristic way onto back balconies strung with laden clothes lines and neglected oddments and through windows to see people watching television or having lunch.  Then we move into the neighborhoods of single family homes with their perfectly level lawns and manicured shrubs, all draped in the morning's snow.  We see abandoned trampolines, sagging slightly from the weight of the snowfall, but most of this world is hidden behind hedges.  Then, we enter the strange world of the Schrebergärten.  It is miles and miles of tiny garden allotments cordoned off by fences constructed of anything its owners could get their hands on, from corrugated tin to car doors.  This region seems to be a vast set from a post-apocalyptic movie.  Some gardens are dearly loved and well maintained even in the winter, others have been left to their own devices. We can see through the grimy back windows of sheds and trailers, catching glimpses of glass jars and spray cans.  Beer bottles lie behind some in vast piles, with the intent that no one would see them.  You can learn a lot about people from a train window.  Then, suddenly and without any warning we burst into the open countryside.  It is a vast, wide open world of white, dotted here and there by rows of trees.  

Speeding Through Winter's World
Camera X-E2 Focal Length: 18mm Exposure: 1/180, f/14, ISO2000

Hills rise and fall and sometimes we enter the deep clefts of a river valley.  The sight of people walking, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, is not rare.  Sunday is Wandern Tag.  You see them moving through the winter blasted landscape alone, in couples, or in groups.  Dogs leap through snowdrifts, children pull each other on sleds.  Occasionally, we see tiny specks of sledders on distant hillsides, gliding down or veering off and dumping their passengers in the fresh powder.  When I think of Winter, I often visualize these scenes in my mind's eye.  I take each frame, captured in the edges of our window, and store them as small postcards.  This is the way January should look, grey skies, drifts, swirling snow, smoke rising out of chimneys, ice forming on river banks, and people walking with red cheeks and laughter and the promise of a hot drink at the end.  

The level of snow increases and decreases as we pass further west.  Sometimes it sits at a half meter along sidewalks, sometimes it is just a powdery dust on farm fields, sometimes it is barely there at all.  The conductor announces our imminent arrival in Leipzig.  We once again pass the Schrebergärten, neighborhoods, apartments, and quiet outskirts of yet another city.  The elderly couple across the aisle from us begin to wrap up their newspapers and casually organize their things.  They have been laughing quietly every now and then over articles in their papers and ordered teas instead of coffee.  They remind me of retired couples we know at home, the ones who are always impeccably dressed and well informed.  They contribute money to the symphony, listen religiously to NPR, and collect New Yorker cartoons on their fridges.  This couple strikes me as the sort that know a great deal about a great many things and that having a conversation with them wouldn't be a waste of time.  

Catching Up on the News
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 32.9mm Exposure: 1/60, f/3.6, ISO1600, LR Custom Preset Edit

Before long, we begin to slow as we enter the massive steel complex of Leipzig station.  Pylons rise above the tracks forming a skeletal forest of steel and the massive canopies of the station begin to loom in the distance.

Steel Forest
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 39mm Exposure: 1/125, f/9, ISO2000

I get the feeling that this scene could be exactly the same a century ago, that train stations have always looked this way- a snarl of metal on a foundation of gravel and cinder.  Perhaps the air was blacker in the past, but this is the way it has always been, more or less.

We linger in Leipzig to change conductors and porters.  The elderly couple disembarks.  Our empty coffee mugs are gathered up and we take the pause to open up those sandwiches from Dresden.  They are small with just turkey, cheese, lettuce, and tomato.  But, the bread is soft and whatever sauce they spread under the cheese has a nice tang.  I could easily eat two more if given the chance.  We watch the new arrivals stroll along the platform to find their cars.  Someone jumps out for a quick smoke, just before the whistle blows and stuffs their lighter and pack of cigarettes back into their coat in frustration before leaping back inside.  We roll back out the way we came, back into the white wilderness between German cities.

Sunshine Cometh
Camera X-E2 Focal Length: 18mm Exposure: 1/180, f/14, ISO2000

We stop again in Fulda and pick up a new occupant for across the aisle.  He hauls on a suitcase, wardrobe bag, and a jumbled assortment of sacks.  A slight man, he reminds me of an eccentric professor or perhaps a writer.  Papers are soon strewn all over his table and he's constantly getting up and down to retrieve a forgotten item from his luggage.  He orders a snack and a coffee from the porter and attacks his bun in a mouse-like manner, ripping it apart carefully into tiny pieces before eating the bits one at a time. 

The Writer
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 24.3 Exposure: 1/180, f/3.6, ISO2000, LR Custom Preset Edit

 The light gets lower in the sky.  There are less people out now, and the snow is fading from the landscape to just a dusting.  Frankfurt isn't far now.  More towns and small cities flash past the window, more sheds, gardens, balconies, and hedges. More lives and stories glimpsed for an instant, never to be seen again.  This is the strange dimension of a train trip.  You can see the world from your window, but you are not a part of it.  In fact, you dwell within your own.  It smells of upholstery and plastic.  Its sounds are of rocking train cars over tracks and hushed voices.  Food and drink come wrapped in plastic.  Your fellow inhabitants come and go with barely a word, though hours spent beside each other make you members of an unspoken tribe, that of the traveller.  This tribe is made up of bankers, writers, progressive retirees, families, children, grandparents, police officers, students, tourists, conductors, porters, engineers, backpackers, and the occasional photographer.  Our little world encased in steel and plastic passes through the outside world of sky, snow, and concrete and the scenes of the old model railway play out before our eyes.

Dash Through Dresden

Dresden at Night
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 26.5 Exposure: 15.sec, f/11, ISO200 

Last weekend we kicked off our 2016 travel with a quick day and a half in Dresden.  We took an evening train from Frankfurt and arrived late Friday night in the city.  The weather had finally become cold where we live in northern Bavaria, so it was certainly colder up in Dresden that weekend.  I decided to go as simple as possible and take my two cameras and just two lenses, the 10-24mm and the 18-55mm.  That way I was set up to get most shots and I wouldn't have to change lenses at all, something I like to avoid when the temperatures dip below freezing or the weather is nasty in general.  What I'm learning to accept since I've begun my journey in travel photography is that I'm not always going to get the shot.  We might get to the location and discover that a major landmark is completely covered in scaffolding and tarps for refurbishment or the light may just be really crappy the whole time or we're inside when the light does something amazing outside or there's a rally and the roads are all closed.  Such is the reality of travel photography, no matter how much you research and plan a lot still hinges on luck.

I initially thought that a winter weekend would be sufficient for Dresden.  The Altstadt is pretty condensed and very walkable so I could get those nice morning and evening scenic shots without having to take a bus or tram.  Then, in the afternoons we could duck into the museums to stay warm and get a little culture.  If the weather was more mild we could head to the Neustadt to visit the markets and do a little street photography.  But, we soon discovered that Dresden deserves more than a weekend and that a return visit will definitely be needed.

The train from Frankfurt is about five hours, so we arrived at our hotel about 10:30pm.  By then, the sidewalks had been rolled up and there was hardly a soul around.  The forecast I had been watching made it look like there would be snow waiting for us and I was really looking forward to getting out early the next morning to catch the soft light on fresh snow in the city center.  But, there wasn't a flake to be seen.  Oh well, I thought, perhaps it will come overnight for us.  Still a little revved up from the trip over we decided to walk around the city for a bit to get the lay of the land and make some mental notes about locations for the morning.  Even though the Alstadt center is compact, I quickly deduced that there was no way I was going to capture everything.  For once, we had arrived in a city that wasn't under complete construction.  Only a few cranes loomed in the sky, and there few tarps draped over the massive buildings.  Years of travel has taught me to plan around the most important landmarks being enshrouded in construction materials so when a whole city center is almost construction free it's like being a kid in a candy shop.  Winter is probably the most risky time to shoot a city (besides the weather) because that is the time to get refurbishment projects done while the tourist count is low.

Anyway, our first night there we walked a good portion of the Altstadt and along Brühl's Terrace.  With it being so dark by then I wasn't planning on doing any real shooting, so we left the tripod in the room and I just carried the X-T1 with the 10-24mm.  The first shot of the Fürstenzug was just done handheld.  I never shoot handheld when it's this dark, and I have to say I was really impressed with X-T1's performance.  For the second shot the ground was obviously used as the tripod.  I developed the RAW in camera, something I haven't played around with too much.  While I will likely stick with development in Photoshop for most shots, for a simple scene like this it certainly is the faster and easier route.

Fürstenzug
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 24mm Exposure: 1/30, f/5, ISO 4000

Schlossplatz at Midnight
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 2 sec, f/8, ISO200

The next morning we got up well before sunrise, suited up in thermals and parkas, slapped on some foot warmers, and headed out to get that magic morning light on the beautiful buildings of the Alstadt.  Unfortunately, there was just a little snow here and there and the sky was a blank slate as the sun began to rise, but this city center has plenty of interesting features to shoot even in the most uninteresting conditions. 

Dresden has a glorious and tragic history.  Although smaller than Leipzig, Dresden is the capital of the state of Saxony.  It was ruled for generations by the Wettin Dynasty, one of the oldest houses of Europe.  The most famous Wettin of Dresden is Augustus II the Strong (1670-1733), and statues and mentions of him are seemingly every few hundred feet.  He was not only a Prince Elector (a noble who participated in the elections of the Holy Roman Emperor), but he was also a King of Poland.  During his reign, Dresden became a center for culture and art and one of Europe's most important cities.  It was under Ausgustus that Dresden and Meissen became the first places in the world outside of Asia that produced porcelain.  It was known for its ceramics ever since.  Unfortunately, its size and location made it a prime target during conflict.  It suffered heavy damage during the Seven Years War and the Napoleonic Wars.  The center was also somewhat destroyed during the May Uprising in 1848.  In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Dresden became a center for the modern age.  It was known for its auto factories, cigarette factories, camera factories, food processing, and medical equipment works.  It was also a European center for the modern art movement.

Of course, what Dresden is remembered most for today is the tragic firebombing which took place February 13-15, 1945.  The bombing was carried out supposedly to destroy military production in the area, to prevent retreating Nazi troops from regrouping in the location, and to cause panic and confusion.  It is also widely held that it was in retaliation for Nazi bombings in England. Over 90% of the city center was leveled beyond recognition and between 18,000-25,000 people (a majority of women and children) were killed.  It wasn't until 2005 that the final reconstruction project ended with the completion of the Frauenkirche.  So, in fact, the Altstadt is rather quite new and the Neustadt (which wasn't bombed) on the opposite side of the Elbe is older.  However, even with this knowledge, it is hard to believe that the beautiful structures of the Alstadt haven't been standing for hundreds of years.

Brühl's Terrace
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 15.1mm Exposure: 5.3sec, f/11, ISO200 

Academy of Fine Arts
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 2sec, f/11, ISO200

Dresdner Residenzschloss
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 1sec, f/11, ISO200

Semperoper and statue of King John I of Saxony
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 1.3sec, f/14, ISO200

We rounded out our morning walk at the Zwinger Palace, where we hoped to spend the later half of the morning having a leisurely stroll through the Old Masters and Mathematics & Physics galleries.  The Zwinger palace is not massive compared to the average European palace from the Baroque era, but it is home to some rare collections.  We figured a morning there would be well spent enjoying them while staying out of the 20F weather.  It is the only landmark building in the Altstadt undergoing major refurbishment, so I didn't spend too much time shooting inside the palace itself.

Looking back to Theaterplatz
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 3sec, f/11, ISO200

Zwinger Courtyard
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 14.5 Exposure: .5sec, f/14, ISO200, Lightroom Edit

Unfortunately, the Old Masters Gallery was completely closed for refurbishment.  That just left the Mathematics & Physics gallery and the Porcelain Gallery, but for the same price as it would be to visit all three.  Now, having spent a good portion of my life looking at ceramics as an archaeologist I wasn't real keen on the Porcelain gallery.  I love looking at old stuff, but ceramics bore me to tears.  I can't say there was a lobby to see it coming from my husband either.   The Mathematics & Physics exhibition sounded very interesting, but we couldn't argue paying the full price of the museum to only see one third of it.  It was the Old Masters that had been the real draw for the Zwinger as this era of the German, Dutch, Flemish, and Italian masters of light is our favorite period in art.  Even though the gallery only displays 40% of its collections at a time, I knew we could spend the majority of the morning basking in the beauty of the pieces.  Oh well, it wasn't meant to be.  So, instead of grabbing a bun and coffee at a bakery before heading into the museum for the morning, we returned to the hotel for its more lavish breakfast and then hit the town for some more strolling, window shopping, and shooting.  

Detail of the Zwinger
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 55mm Exposure: 1/60, f/4.5, ISO640

Detail on the Georgenbau Gate
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 44.4m Exposure: 1/30. f/4.5, ISO640

Dresdener Residenzschloss Inner Courtyard
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 42.5mm Exposure: 1/60, f/8, ISO640

Pause in the Commute
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 55mm Exposure: 1/60, f/5.6, ISO640

Taschenberg
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 27.7mm Exposure: 1/125, f/8, ISO540, Fujifilm Classic Chrome profile

The famous Frauenkirche was due to open in the afternoon so we headed back there around 1pm to climb the dome and see the interior.  The Frauenkirche has become one the symbols of Dresden and one of the most significant landmarks of the destruction of Europe during WWII.  The original church was completed in the 18th century and immediately became one of the most unique churches of Europe with its Protestant design and 315 foot dome.  It was the symbol of Dresden, surviving cannonball fire during the Seven Years War and the conflict of the May Uprising.   However, it was not to survive the Firebombing of February 1945.  The dome collapsed on February 15th and the church was destroyed beyond recognition.  It would remain in complete ruin for 45 years as a war memorial (and propaganda symbol against the West) under communist rule.  But, after the reunification of Germany, work began in 1994 to rebuild the church.  It wasn't completed until 2005.  The new church is reconstructed of its original materials as much as possible.  The original darkened stones are clearly visible amongst the lighter new sandstone.  The original cross which topped the church and was crumpled and smashed now rests inside near the altar.  Its replacement was cast by the son of one of the British airmen who dropped the bombs in 1945.  Today the church is a symbol for many things, but most especially as one of reconciliation and renewal.  Climbing the dome is a must for visitors to Dresden and provides incredible views of the city and the Dresden basin region.

Looking Down on Dresden
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 13.8mm Exposure: 1/60, f/11, ISO320

Dresden and the Elbe
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 13.8 Exposure: 1/50, f/11, ISO320 

View of the Neumarkt
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 13.8mm Exposure: 1/50, f/11, ISO320

Once again, however, we managed to time our visit poorly.  For a reason that wasn't clearly given, the interior of the church was closed to the public that afternoon.  We were only able to get a glimpse down through the dome as we walked up the wrap around ramp to the top of the dome.  So, clearly we will have to return to Dresden!

In the Dome
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 42.5mm Exposure: 1/30, f/8, ISO3200

  Nighttime comes quickly in the Winter.  My main goal for the trip was to shoot Dresden's famous Altstadt skyline from somewhere along the Elbe.  Originally I was thinking I would shoot directly across the river, but I'm never 100% committed to my plans until I've actually "ground truthed" a city.  Upon looking at a few postcards (a great travel photography tip, by the way), I decided I wasn't as inspired by the flat view directly across the river.  Also, since we didn't have time or plans to get into Neustadt, it seemed like a bit of a waste to cross all the way over just to walk all the way back.  So, the idea came to look for a slightly more unique angle from one of the bridges during blue hour instead.  We walked down to the Carolabrücke instead of the more well-known Augustusbrücke and then shot back towards Brühl's Terrace.  This view shows the Ständehaus, Hofkirche, Residenzschloss, Augustusbrücke, and Semperoper.  I particularly liked the lines of the street and moored boats below the terrace and thought it was a bit more interesting than the standard horizontal view across the river.  Plus, I wanted the Elbe to be a star of the shot too.  It is such an important player in the city's history as not only its original highway, but the city's greatest threat.  The Elbe has flooded three times since catastrophic floods in 2002, once nearly destroying the Opera.

Dresden at Blue Hour
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 42.5mm Exposure: 10sec, f/13, ISO200

 On the way back to the center we snapped a couple more shots (including the one at the beginning of the post).  Blue hour only lasted about 30mins because of the heavy clouds and by the time we were back to the Frauenkirche it had become quite dark.

Frauenkirche and Martin Luther
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 28sec, f/10, ISO200

Every photo trip comes with at least one regret.  My regrets are the things that I made a mistake on, a bad call, a missed opportunity, or just poor time management.  I don't regret that we couldn't get in to see the Old Masters or the inside of Frauenkirche since that was out of our hands.  But, I am disappointed that I didn't look out the window of our hotel when I woke up around 3am Sunday morning to get a drink.  The forecast said there wasn't a single chance of precipitation overnight.  Any snow was due to show up well after we got on our noon train back to Frankfurt.  Neither of us had slept well Friday night because the hotel's beds are in dire need of new mattresses and pillows.  Since it appeared that the light would be the same as it was Saturday morning and we had gotten everything we wanted then, we decided to sleep in on Sunday, have a leisurely breakfast, then wander through Pragerstrasse on the way to catch the train home.  But, if I had looked out the window at 3am I would have seen that it did snow overnight and it snowed quite a bit.  But, I was thirsty and suffering from another fitful night on the soggy mattress and pulling back the curtains didn't cross my mind.  Sigh.  So, we missed the opportunity to get the buildings topped in all their snowy splendor in the morning light on Sunday.  Lesson learned:  Always plan to get up early.  You can always go back to bed if you don't need to shoot.

After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and headed out for one last look of the powdery city on a circuitous route to the train station.

Trees or Tree
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 1/60, f/10, ISO500

On The Terrace
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 10mm Exposure: 1/100, f/11, ISO500

Snow Commute
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 55mm Exposure: 1/250, f/11, ISO1000

Terrace Steps
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 23.3mm Exposure: 1/180, f/11, ISO1000

One of the Four Times Of Day 
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 50.5mm Exposure: 1/180, f/7.1, ISO1000

On Pragerstrasse
Camera: X-E2 Focal Length: 46.3mm Exposure: 1/5000, f/4, ISO1000

So, that sums up our first excursion of 2016.  I have to say I was very surprised by the city.  Dresden has been in the news quite a bit lately because of pro and anti-PEGIDA demonstrations and occasional violence against refugees or people in general who appear to be of Arab or Jewish descent.  Even though we stuck to the tourist area, we weren't sure what to expect.  Frankfurt has become rather edgy since the beginning of the refugee crisis so we expected to at least come across some anti-immigrant graffiti or posts in a city where this movement is more popular.  However, there wasn't a single indication of this while we were there.  Dresden is quite cosmopolitan with a great shopping district, the opera, and the museums.  It is a city definitely worth a second visit.  We would like to get to the Zwinger and inside the Frauenkirche next time, as well as Neustadt.  Perhaps we may even be able to explore some areas outside the city like Sächsische Schweiz.

Below is the kit I brought for shooting in Dresden last weekend.  Even though it is pictured, I didn't end up bringing the 55-200mm lens and thankfully didn't need it all.  I switched over to the ThinkTank Retrospective 7 for my bag since I was carrying two cameras.  I brought, but didn't need the ND filters.  My tripod is a 3 Legged Thing Brian.  I carry it in its own case and since Brian is pretty light that's not a problem.  For short trips like this I bring along my iPad to do some quick edits in Lightroom Mobile, and despite having access to the internet in Germany, we always stick a guidebook in the bag as a backup.  Other bits and bobs here are a shutter release cable (because it's faster and warmer than using the Fujifilm Camera remote app), spare SD cards, chargers, and a notebook for jotting down thoughts and ideas for a return trip.

Shot with an iPhone 

I did quite a bit of street photography, trying to capture some of the local characters in this grand space.  Most of the shots will be on my Flickr page by the end of the week, but I wanted to share this one here.

Will See You In 5 Minutes
Camera: X-T1 Focal Length: 12.6mm Exposure: 1/30, f/4, ISO6400

Normally I wouldn't use the 10-24mm lens for street shots, but when we passed under the Georgenbau Gate of the Residenzschloss, I wanted to not only capture the people passing through the space, but the architecture of the gate as well.  It was quite dark under there so I cranked up the ISO to its tolerable limit and opened the lens as wide as I could at the focal length.  Originally, I was focusing slightly back into the further passage as people passed directly in the center, making it more of an urban geometry shot than a standard street photo.  However, this guy was passing much closer to me and there was something about his pace and complete immersion in his phone that stood out to me.  Everyone else was strolling through at a Saturday pace.  Most were couples, many of them were tourists.  But, this guy was clearly not concerned with sightseeing, but instead on getting to his destination as quickly as possible while texting on his phone.  So, I snapped the shot, even though I knew he would be out of focus.  In fact, that was imperative for me; this hurried, distracted character breezing through this static symmetrical space.  I know it's not a clean or perfect shot, but it's one of my favorite from the trip.  Cities are built, destroyed, and rebuilt, but we are just fleeting players, usually indifferent to the spaces around us.