Ok, I'm really sorry this has taken me so long to get up on the blog. I'm not exactly sure where this summer is going, but it is going fast and I could almost swear there are less hours in a day than there used to be. Anyway, finally, and without further ado, here are my tips for traveling in Ireland!
1. DO: Rent a Car
For those of us who have spent our entire lives driving on the right side of the road, getting behind the wheel of a right hand drive car and beginning a journey of opposites can be a little daunting. Ok, it's really daunting. However, the best way to see the country of Ireland is with a car. There are plenty of tour buses to take, but you're going to be at their mercy. Trust me, this is a country you will want to explore on back roads.
It's a little nerve wracking at times, and those backroads are narrow and have about 0% visibility, but you will not regret renting the car. Other options? Besides tour buses, you're mostly left with taxis in the countryside and they aren't always available. There are some local transport buses, but they may not go where you want depending on where that is. Bicycles? We saw plenty of people going that route, but honestly you couldn't pay me to do that. Like I said, the roads are really narrow and you'll be lucky if you can see what's coming ahead. Locals know the roads well and drive pretty quickly, tourists don't and drive pretty erratically. Your odds of being run off into a hedge or run over seem to be a bit high during the summer in the Irish countryside. But, it's totally up to you!
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| One of the AirBnBs we booked. Absolutely lovely. |
Ok, you can. As far as I know there isn't anything wrong with Irish hotels. But, if you want a more personal experience book B&B's or, even better, AirBnB's. I know I've talked about AirBnB before, but I'd like to reiterate how fantastic that system is. For the price of a hotel room, and usually less, you can get an entire apartment or house. We love them. On most of our trips we need a break from restaurant food, so it's nice having a kitchen at our disposal. As tasty as pub food is, a little bit goes a long way. You too may welcome the chance to whip up your own dinner a few times during the trip. The best part of AirBnB, however, is that usually you get to meet and chat with the owner. This is invaluable. These folks have already opened their property to you, so more than likely they want to pass on of lots of insider information. The Irish, of course, are known for their hospitality and gift for gab, so more than likely you'll have plenty of recommendations to keep you busy during your trip and local stories to file away into your notebook. If you're lucky you may even get invited to family events! You never know!
3. DO: Order Some Seafood
When most people think of Irish food, images of soda bread, shepherd's pie, and boxtys might come to mind. But, you know, Ireland is an island and you're never too far from the coast. That means fantastic fresh seafood is always available somewhere. If you happen to come across a fisherman's pub near the coast, do pop in for some fish and chips. More than likely, that fish came in off the boat that morning.
4. DON'T: Stay Too Long in Dublin
Dublin is a great city. Definitely. But, sacrifice time in the capital for more time in the countryside. The countryside of Ireland is jaw dropping. This is no exaggeration. It truly is jaw dropping, especially on the western coast. County Kerry is probably one of the more popular tourist regions in the country, but if you stay outside the main tourist towns like Killarney, you'll leave the buses and crowds behind in no time. Explore the back roads, get a little lost. You'll never know when an amazing view, castle ruin, or herd of livestock on the road will be around the corner.
5. DO: Go to the Pubs
Finding a good pub is getting trickier and trickier these days as tourism continues to rise, but they're out there. There are two kinds of pubs, the ones with food menus and the one's without. If you're where there are a lot of tourists, the ones without food are your best bet for catching the local scene. Go up to the bar, order a pint, and before you know it you'll either be talking to the barman about the history of the town or the guy next to you about anything from his cousin who lives in Indianapolis to, well, anything. The Irish love to chat, and they are a pleasure to chat with. Trust me, a week or more in Ireland does wonders for the soul that usually resides stoic Germany.
Another pub tip: Look for ones that have a lot of hardware store goods in the windows. Back in the day, the pub was a place to buy your animal feed, motor oil, and grab a pint with your mates (sometimes leading one to forget the feed and oil). They don't work that way anymore, but the ones that still honor that heritage generally are pubs that have been there a good long while and they have the better local scene. It's kinda like being in a episode of Cheers or something. If you're lucky, someone will start playing a little music in the corner, and they'll be joined by someone else, and before you know it you are immersed in an experience about as Irish as it can get.
6. DON'T: Count on the Weather
Irish weather is pretty notorious for its fickleness. If you're a landscape photographer it can be pretty frustrating if you're counting on clear days. You shouldn't count on getting a lot of them. But, bring along a good weather sealed camera, pack a set of waterproof clothes, and roll with it. Misty scenes are pretty evocative of Ireland. You may be surprised with what you get, if you're willing to work with the weather.
If you're not worried so much about photographs, then throw on that rain coat and accept the weather! It is a part of the Irish experience!
7. DO: Order A Pint of Guinness. Then, Order Something Else.
Not having a Guinness in Ireland is like going to France and not having wine, or Germany and not having a pilsner. Guinness is about as symbolic of Ireland as the harp and the shamrock. Of course, there is a proper way to have a Guinness, and it's all about patience. Order it at the bar, but then head to your seat. Pouring a Guinness takes a bit of time. When it is delivered, let it rest for a bit until it's all settled out. Then enjoy!
But, there are plenty of other Irish beers to try, and you should. The selection changes depending on where you are, but you're usually guaranteed to have another stout to choose from, red ales, brown ales, and maybe even an IPA. Like the most of the world, the Craft Beer movement is going strong in Ireland!
8. DON'T: Visit the Guinness Storehouse
Ok, this may ruffle some feathers. But, the Guinness Storehouse is, um, kinda awful. It could be us, or the day, but going down that rabbit hole is my only regret from the trip. It's a Guinness themed funhouse, packed to the gills with people who haven't a clue why they are there except the guidebook told them it is a must-see. You know what? It isn't. It's just a big honking tourist trap. It's crowded, gaudy, loud, crazy sticky, and overpriced. I've never been a theme park person, but I imagine this is exactly what they are like, except the theme is Guinness instead of a cartoon mouse. You want a pint of Guinness? Then go to a pub around the corner and order one. You want novelty Guinness souvenirs? You can pick that stuff up in any shop, or even the airport! You want to learn about the brewing process, then take another brewery tour anywhere else.
9. DO: Visit a Whiskey Distillery
Irish whiskey is just as culturally significant as Guinness, but chances are you haven't been on a distillery tour before. I recommend skipping Jameson. It's a flashy place, but you need to book ahead and it's pretty crowded. Also, their bar was a bit harried. I recommend driving out to Tullamore D.E.W. It's a new facility, but a far more relaxed and intimate tour than you'll get anywhere else. Our guide knew the distillation process backwards and forwards, happily answered questions, and was a real pleasure to spend an hour with. No booking ahead required, and you get a tasting at the end of the tour. It's definitely worth the drive!
10. DON'T: Get Hoodwinked by the Tourist Boards
Ireland is a bit odd in how they handle tourist sights. Some things are free and open 24/7, other things, like the Cliffs of Moher, have set hours and high fees. Do a little research before your trip so you don't end up shelling out money you shouldn't have to. If you're into prehistoric ruins and castle ruins, there are plenty all over the landscape that you don't need a ticket for. Most of the time, the free things are crowd free and in more beautiful locations. One of the weirdest things to us was having to pay money to look at cliffs. When it comes to the Cliffs of Moher, make sure you go on a clear day with low winds and then walk in along the trail route. Don't fall for having to pay to park at the visitor center. We made that mistake and only learned after the fact that the park doesn't actually close at 7:00pm. Our car would be locked in at the lot, but if we had walked in we could stay as long as we liked to get good light for a photograph. Also, on a good weather day, you can climb over the slate roof shingle barrier if you're careful. Still stay well back from the edge (and for crying out loud don't sit on it!) because it is eroding. But, there is plenty of clearly defined stable ground and it's worth standing on so you can actually see the cliffs. I'm very short and really wouldn't have been able see much of anything without climbing over. Sometimes you have to take a risk to see the view, especially if you just payed a bunch of money!
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| Do risk an hindered peek at the Cliffs of Moher, just don't be an idiot and sit on the edge like those people! |
There ya go! Ireland is definitely one of our favorite locations (I know I've been saying that a lot this year). The Irish are a fantastic people and the countryside is absolutely stunning. You won't regret making it your next travel destination!
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