Beginner Tips for Traveling with a DSLR

We just got back from Ireland a few days ago, and it was yet another fantastic travel experience in a year of fantastic travel experiences. Gosh, I hope I didn't just jinx us. But, more on that trip later.

This week I want to throw out a handful of tips for those who may be heading out on their first international trip with a brand new interchangeable lens camera.  Some of this I've learned the hard way, so you don't have to.  I've also witnessed a lot of fumbles over the years that can easily be avoided with a little knowledge ahead of time. So, without further ado, here are some tips to make traveling with your camera go a little easier:

1.  Learn how to use your camera before your trip
Ok, so you're heading out on this once-in-a-lifetime trip, and to celebrate you've picked up a shiny new Canon or Nikon DSLR.  The guy at Best Buy or that photography guru friend said this was the best camera to document your trip with.  You believed him.  The shop also talked you into the UV filter, that fancy bag with the rain cover, and maybe a travel tripod and another lens.  Hopefully, you picked up a couple of SD cards and an extra battery.

Now what?

Sit down, chill out, and let the initial excitement of brand new toys wear off.  Ok, now spend some time with the camera.  Do this long before you get on the plane.  Read the manual.  Evaluate what you have there, and really think about the type of pictures you want to take.  If you're just interested in snapshots (which is totally fine, by the way), maybe consider taking everything back.  There are some really great smaller, cheaper, and easier to use compact cameras out there that will take fantastic travel pictures and snapshots.  You don't need a big DSLR for your vacation.  They are capable of doing a lot of things that you may not need, and there's no point in buying things you don't need.

But, if you're really interested going the DSLR route, then you have to spend some time learning about how it works, or you're going to be frustrated and disappointed with taking photographs on your trip and you may end up just using your phone instead.  That would be sad.

There's plenty of information out there online and in books for beginner DSLR users so they can get the best out of their cameras.  You don't need to take a class, but do a little research and get some practice in.

2. Bring extra SD Cards

Buy enough to have one per every two or three of days of your trip.  This will guarantee that you won't lose all your photos if one card goes bad.  It will also make going through them less of a nightmare when you get home (something I've picked up from experience).  Sandisk is the way to go when it comes to brands.  You can stick with 32GB or even 16, since you'll have several.  Ultra or Ultra Plus are good for stills, Extreme Plus and Extreme Pro are good for burst shooting and video.  If you want to be extra careful about saving your photos while you're traveling, buy a small sized, but large capacity external hard drive and card reader.

3. Use that lens hood

By Geni - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0
 https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25176998

If your lens came with a hood, use it.  Lens hoods serve two purposes.  Firstly, they help with glare and lens flare, which may not be something you're really interested in.  Secondly, they do a great job of protecting your lens, which you should be interested in.  Your camera will get knocked around on your trip, especially if you're wearing it around your neck all day.  Cameras can take some gentle knocks, but you want to protect the glass of the lens from getting scratched or cracked.  Hoods do that.  If you leave the hood extended, you don't have to use a lens cap.  Lens caps are really mostly for storing lenses.  I only use a cap if there's a lot of stuff flying through the air like sand or water.  Caps block the lens making it impossible to take pictures.  Removing and replacing your cap takes time away from taking pictures and you'll probably miss shots.  The hood will protect your lens just fine while leaving it ready to shoot when you need to.  Also, if you have a hood on your lens, don't leave it in storage position (which hinders operation and serves no purpose), flip it around!  If your lens didn't come with a hood, seriously consider picking one up.

4.  Invest in a comfy strap or bag

When most people travel with a large camera, they prefer to keep it hanging from their necks.  If this is the route you want to go, that's ok, but do yourself a favor and invest in a comfortable strap.  Camera manufacturers make great cameras, they do not make great straps.  If you're going to carry a sizable camera from your neck all day, it's going to get uncomfortable using the manufacturer's strap.  BlackRapid is probably the most popular aftermarket strap company out there and they have a lot of options for comfortable neck or shoulder straps.  You can find these at your shop, and, of course, there's always plenty of other options online.  My favorite brand is Holdfast Gear, BlackRapid is more affordable.  Get yourself a comfy strap.

Think Tank Photo's Retrospective 5 Bag.
Photo via Think Tank

Or, better yet, get a nice bag.  Using a bag instead of a strap is more inconspicuous.  If you prefer to travel a little more under the radar, then you won't want to keep the camera around your neck for everyone to see.  Bags are the solution.  I prefer shoulder bags so I can get at my stuff faster, but whatever you prefer get a bag with a comfortable strap system, easy access, and good protection.  Think Tank is my favorite brand.  Several Lowepros have fallen apart on me.  If you just have one camera and up to one extra lens, you can just get a padded insert to stick inside a bag you already own.  If you really don't want people to know you have a camera on you, then this is your best solution.  Or you can get a more expensive designer camera bag.




5.  For the love, clean your camera and change lenses properly!!

The other day, we were standing on a hill overlooking the coast of Ireland.  It was very exposed and very windy.  I watched in horror as someone nearby removed their lens from the body, faced into the wind, and started blowing inside the body and lens with their mouth.  I actually shouted at them, which surprised both of us.  Sorry, whoever you are, but it was kinda like watching someone deliberately keying their own car.  Here's the thing, cameras have some delicate bits inside of them, and they can be easily damaged.  You don't want to damage these bits because your camera won't be able to do its job anymore, and it will be really expensive to get the bits replaced.  What are these bits?  When you look inside a DSLR (no matter the brand) when the lens is off, you're looking at this, the inner chamber:

By Kārlis Dambrāns  - Canon EOS 70D, CC BY 2.0
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=29711357

The mirror you're looking at is the reflex mirror that allows you to frame the scene when you're looking through the viewfinder or rear screen.  It flips up when you hit the shutter button to expose the sensor (more on that in a second).  This is a delicate little mirror, you don't want to touch it or get anything on it.  Even though the mirror is in front of the sensor, it doesn't really protect it in any way.  If you decided to buy a mirrorless interchangeable lens camera- Sony Alpha, Olympus OM-D or Pen, Fujifilm X Series, etc. that sensor is totally exposed when you remove the lens. The sensor is a very delicate component to the camera.  If the sensor is damaged, your camera won't work the way it's supposed to.  In fact, serious damage, which is what a scratch, water, and skin oil is, will make the camera useless.  It is very easy to get dust in this chamber, in fact it's inevitable.  Small little bits of dust aren't that big of deal, but big bits like grains of sand, plant debris, and hairs are and can scratch and destroy your sensor. You don't want anything visible with the naked eye getting near your sensor.  So, if you remove your lens when you're in a windy place stuff will get in that chamber.  And, if you continue doing that you will damage your camera.  Guaranteed.  This is how to avoid ruining your mirror and sensor:

Change lenses when you're indoors and out of the wind as much as possible.  Do not remove the lens when it is very windy, just make do with your set up. If the conditions are ok and you can't get indoors, then here's how you can change lenses quickly and safely.  Make sure, make absolutely sure that the camera is off.  If it isn't, the sensor acts like a magnet for dust.  Position the other lens in an orientation that makes it easy to click it into place quickly (make sure the little orienting dot or square is already in the right spot) and loosen its rear element cap ahead of time.  Then, with the front of the camera body facing downwards, remove the first lens.  Set it down with the hood extended or cap in place front downwards on a flat and stable surface or in the hand of your assistant ;-), then switch the rear cap onto it from the second lens.  Then, click the second lens into the camera body.  This is one of the things you should practice before your trip.  You should be able to do this quickly, kinda like a gunslinger practicing their draw.

Giotto's Ind. Inc.

Now, if you do notice some dust or a hair towards the front the body chamber, you can get it out if you're careful.  Do not, do not, do not, use your mouth to blow it out.  Doing so will just blow saliva in there which will make things worse.  You're also likely to blow the offending material further into the chamber.  Use one of the blowers shown on the left.  The one here is probably the most popular out there, but you can find an effective model at most camera shops.  They're designed to blow away dust and hairs without blowing new things onto the surface.  Remember, keep whatever you're cleaning facing downwards so what is being blown off doesn't just fall back into place again.  If you're blowing things out of the camera chamber, the best way is to hook it up to a tripod so you don't risk handshake.  Remember, you don't want anything visible with the naked eye touching the mirror or the sensor, and that means the tip of the blower.  Be very, very careful while cleaning the chamber.  Never clean the interior of your camera while you're outdoors.

Overtime the sensor may get enough dust on it to become an issue, ie. you spend a lot of time removing spots from all your photos with your software.  The best way to get it cleaned is to pack the camera up and ship it to the manufacturer.  A lot of professionals don't trust themselves to clean sensors, so letting Canon or Nikon (or whatever manufacturer made your camera) handle it is totally respectable.  Visit the manufacture's website or consult your manual for more information.  Several camera stores also offer this service, and if they screw it up they will replace the camera for you.  This is expensive, so you can decide to clean the sensor yourself.  I'm not going to go into the steps on this, but you can find information online easily or get some instruction at your camera shop.  Keep in mind, however, that if you screw it up you will have to replace your camera.  There's no going back.

When you need to clean your lens or filters (and you will), this is a far less intimidating venture.  Once again, don't blow on them with your mouth.  Also, don't use your t-shirt or even that lens cloth sewn into the camera bag (because it's probably dirty).  Use a lens pen brush to swipe away dust on filters or front elements and the pen element to remove finger prints or other marks.  Once again, you don't have to go with the LENSPEN brand, there are comparable tools available at most shops.  Use a blower to clean the rear element of your lens.  Also, make sure to clean off caps and hoods regularly.

Treating your camera properly means that you and your camera can keep traveling together and you won't miss out on capturing memories!

6.  Keep your camera safe

Besides protecting your new camera from physical damage through proper handling and good storage, also remember to protect it from theft.  Don't leave your camera sitting outside on sidewalk cafe tables or other surfaces where they can be easily snatched.  Keep your camera bag on you.  Don't leave it visible in the car, heck, don't leave your camera in the car period.  If you're in a crowded area, be mindful of your surroundings and keep your bag or strap crossways on your body or the strap around your neck.  Don't casually walk with the camera strap over your shoulder.  If you're going somewhere and you don't want to take the camera with you, use your hotel safe.  If your room doesn't have a safe, then you'll have to take the camera with you.  Your camera is expensive, but it is also the way to document your trip.  It is pretty irreplaceable.

7.  Put your camera away from time to time

Eat your dinners, don't photograph them.  Study the wonders of the museums with your eyes, don't worry about taking a picture of them.  Spend time with your travel companions, don't be obsessed with getting selfies at every landmark you come across.  Photograph the things that matter to you, not all the minutia.  If you're too focused on your camera, you're missing the full experience of your trip.  I've had trouble with this one quite a bit, and I'm still learning to step back and put the camera away without always worrying about a lost shot.  If you can manage a little photographic self control on your journey, you will have a more enjoyable experience and probably better pictures too.  Oh, and here's a little bonus tip: buy postcards of famous museum pieces.  Those photographs are much better than anything you will get in a dark room with glass in the way.  Take in that object as it is before you, leave the camera in the bag.


Hopefully, these tips will help you on your first or next trip.  We've all made mistakes.  I quickly discovered how important it is to have a good camera strap, for example.  Whether this is your first DSLR or not, it's important that it improves your travel experience and doesn't take away from it.  Enjoy your camera, enjoy your journey!

Music Behind the Images

The more I study and practice photography, the more I've become convinced about the importance of spending some time with other arts.  Painting is probably the most influential medium on photography.  Instead of capturing light, they create it.  No one was better at it than the Dutch and Flemish masters, and I love popping into museums to spend some time with their creations.  But, painting isn't the only art that can influence and inspire photographers.  Pretty much any form of visual art can inspire us.  I've become convinced that continually taking time to spend looking at and studying other artistic creations besides photographs will do nothing but benefit me in the long run.

I've also become convinced about the importance of using music in photography. Huh? No, I don't mean setting a slideshow to music or music paired with a time lapse video.  I mean including music in my process of shooting and editing.

We all have probably experienced the power an old song from our past has to conjure memories and conversations, even tastes and smells.  When I was around 7 or 8 I was taking figure skating lessons at the Kent State ice rink and going there almost every day to skate.  They had the radio playing in the rink and Two Princes by the Spin Doctors would come on at least twice every time I was there.  To this day, when I hear that song I'll be transported back to skating on the ice.  I can remember what it smelled like, I can feel the ice under my skates.  It's a pretty cool phenomenon.  About a year ago I was reading a travel memoir and the author mentioned a technique with music that he used to preserve memories of his travels.  He said he would pick an album and listen to it over and over while he was traveling somewhere (this was back in the day of cassette tapes).  When he came home he'd put the tape away and wouldn't listen to it for years.  Then, when he would finally pull it out of the drawer and play it, it worked like a time machine, transporting him right back to where he was when he last heard those songs.  I thought this was a pretty great idea, and have since started doing it too.

Instead of buying an entire album, I'll make a playlist.  I keep it short, up to 15 tracks, just like the length of an album.  That way we'll get through the list several times over on the trip.  The more we listen to the playlist, the better it works.  So, I usually do this if we're going to be on a train or in the car for a long period of time while we're traveling.  It's all we listen to on the trip and we listen to it in the same order the whole time.  Then, when we get home, I file it away and don't listen to it for a while.  That's very important to the process.  The only time I allow myself to listen to the music is right after, while I'm editing my photos from the trip.  Besides that, I wait a year before I start listening to the playlist or specific songs from it again.

I have a few rules when I'm looking for a music to add to the list.  First of all, it has to be from an artist or band that comes from the country we're traveling too.  Even in this age of mainstream music which tends to be sung in English a lot of the time, each country's sound is a little different.  Sometimes that comes from the instruments and sometimes that comes from the voices.  Music comes from the heart of the artist who writes it, and I think where they come from is a major influence on what is in their hearts.  Themes and chords resonate from that place.

Secondly, most of the music has to be new, or at the very least, new to me.  I don't just compile a list from stuff I already own.  And, I try to avoid music that was popular from growing up. I don't want to know the words already or have any sort of memories already attached to them.  I want current sound so the music will take me not just to a place, but also a time. Occasionally, I'll make exceptions, but for the most part I choose tunes from up and coming groups not known well outside their nation, or ones relatively new to the popular global scene.  Sometimes I'll include a popular song either because I really like it or it fits well with the rest of them.

Thirdly, I have to like the music.  Duh.  These songs have to be ones I'll want to pepper into future playlists, songs I actually want to hear again.  Sometimes that makes it kinda difficult, if popular music from a country doesn't fit my tastes.  One or two trad songs on the list are ok, but they have to have the right sound or be very short in length to make the cut.  

A little under a year ago, we were driving through Norway.  The playlist from that trip is probably my favorite of all of those I've made.  I've become fans of several artists and bands that I discovered by creating the list.  You can listen to what I came up with below.  One exception I made for this one was including the song by Fever Ray.  She's Swedish, but it's the theme from the Vikings TV show, and therefore just had to be on there.  There are a couple of other differences between my original list and the one below.  It's missing Good Mistake by Mr Little Jeans and instead of Someone Who'll Get It it had the Heavenly Father single by Highasakite.  The two missing songs aren't on Spotify, but they are on iTunes.  Highasakite's cover of Heavenly Father is, in my opinion, far more stirring than the Bon Iver original, so definitely give it a listen.

Through the use of the music, I'm able to access areas of subconscious that store deeper memories and feelings from being in that space.  I use it while editing my photos so I can remember the feel I had while taking them, and the feel I want to create in the final image.  If I decide to go back and re-edit older shots from the original RAW files, that playlist comes on over the speakers again.  It's far more effective than rereading my journals or looking back at the photographs themselves.  As soon as I flick on that playlist I can feel the wind, I can recall the smells, the light, and the tastes.  I can remember moments of swinging around turns in the mountains, the sensation of the car leaning into the corner, the release of g-force after the apex of the turn, and the shock of an immense landscape revealing itself.  Suddenly I can recall the tastes and textures of the food, and ambient sounds in the air. Basically, I'm back there again. It's amazing how our brains work, isn't it?

Magic City

It's time to talk about Lisbon, and I'm a little hesitant to do so.  Why?  Well, we landed upon a place so perfect just the way it is, I'm not real keen on adding my voice to the growing chorus.  Once more and more tourists start coming, it's going to lose some of that magic.  I really, really want Lisbon to stay just the way it is.

We didn't really know what to expect from Lisbon when we landed there last week via a late flight from Frankfurt.  It was close to midnight when we hopped on the subway at the airport for a trip underground towards the city center and our hotel.  You can't tell one city from another on a subway.  They all look the same, the same people ride them.  At that time of night, they're either heading out to party or they're heading home, exhausted.  We popped up onto a silent street thirty minutes later and as we walked the final steps of the days journey, I started to realize that we may have found ourselves in a really special place.

Looking down in Lisbon

Usually, sidewalks are like subways.  They're about the same in every city.  Not in Lisbon though. The main walkways, the squares, even the not so main walkways are paved in blocks of black and white marble.  Some are done in such mesmerizing patterns, you find yourself staring down more than up!  As we rolled our suitcases down one of these sidewalks for several blocks, we commented that if the sidewalks were anything to go on, we were in for a visual feast over the next five days.

But, I had problem.  Something evil had been growing in the lawns back home on the banks of the Main River, and I was experiencing the beginning stages of allergic conjunctivitis, a nasty condition which takes itchy eyes to a whole new level of misery, blurs vision, creates sensitivity to light, makes you cry all day, and the lids swell up.  I was uncomfortable and self-conscious.  And, of course, I was worried that it was going to prevent me from taking photographs.  I had picked up some drops and pills at the pharmacy before we left and had hoped that my eyes would start clearing up thanks to the meds and being away from the grass of northern Bavaria.  That wasn't to be.

Alleyway

Our plan for this trip was to be spontaneous.  All we needed to do was wander, there weren't going to be dinner reservations, fado shows, or anything else that pinned us down to a schedule.  In my research before we left, I came to the conclusion that Lisbon is one of those cities that lends itself to aimless exploring and with five days available, my goal was to do just that.  Since we came in so late the night before, we slept in our first day and took a relaxing morning and afternoon wandering around the area near the castle and the Alfama neighborhood.  Besides the sidewalks, my eyes were drawn towards narrow views down alleys, hanging laundry, and street scenes.

Lisbon is a city full of life.  Unlike most of the old city centers in Europe, which are populated by tourists during the day and no one else, Lisbon's old neighborhoods are still lived in.  Besides the aged former glory of the streets, which revealed themselves around every corner, everyday life is happening in vibrant gusto.  Groups of children played football in the streets, people hung out of windows calling to friends down below, people were bustling to prepare for the Feast of St. Anthony which started the following weekend.  Everywhere we turned, things were happening.  There were still plenty of tourists stumbling around in a confused stupor, paper maps unfurled and fluttering before them like sails.  But, all around was life, real life.  There was also a vibrance to that life.  Latin culture is certainly very different from that of the more somber northern Europeans.  People were smiling, nodding greetings, children joked for the camera, and every person we spoke to had a warmth about them, a genuine friendliness that was so refreshing, we were asking ourselves why it had taken us so long to come here.  Part of the morning was spent seeking out an open pharmacy so I could get some more allergy medication.  That day was a holiday, so many were shut.  As we puzzled over a list of supposed open ones that was posted in a window, we were joined by an elderly gentleman.  He immediately asked us if we needed help, and then, in perfect English, gave us point by point directions to a pharmacy.  We didn't ask for help, he just offered it.  I can't remember the last time someone did that.  This wouldn't be the last time we were warmed by the hospitality of the Lisbonians.  The entire day we wandered, walking far more than we planned and wearing ourselves out.  But, we were having a fabulous time.  With no schedule to worry about, we stopped for coffees when we wanted, grabbed a snack (more on those later), or sipped a glass of wine.  Then, we'd wander some more, never knowing what would reveal itself around the next turn in the road.  As the daylight began to fade over the city, we stood in a park with a grilled chicken takeaway dinner, snapping a few shots from the Miradouro (viewpoints not to be missed).  Someone was playing a guitar under the trees, people were laughing, and we were feeling like we'd found a chest of buried treasure.  We'd fallen fast and hard in love with Lisbon and it had only been 24 hours.  However, my eyes were getting worse and it was to the point that I was going to need something more than over the counter drops if I wanted to see anymore of the city for the rest of the trip.  I was in misery by the time we got back to the hotel.  The evil grass allergens were back in Germany, but I hadn't counted on the wind in Lisbon.

The first evening.

When Friday dawned with the sound of garbage trucks in the street and road workers getting their equipment up and running, I barely open my eyes because the lids were so swollen.  When I did, they were an angry bright red.  The bathroom light was excruciating.  The only relief was laying in bed with a wet washcloth over my eyes.  It was time to find a doctor.  I was, as they say, gutted.  Our experiences with doctors in Luxembourg were overwhelmingly negative.  The few times we've had to visit one, we were humiliated or insulted.  Their hygiene left something to be desired too, dirty exam rooms with no sterile equipment.  They didn't even use gloves.  It was like going back in time to an age when medical care was more likely to harm you than help.  Since Luxembourg is one of the wealthiest nations of Europe, we couldn't figure out why the medical care was so unregulated, let alone antiquated. We haven't been to a doctor in Germany yet, mostly because we're afraid of encountering yet another quack.  Also, actual medical practitioners seem to be a rarity in these parts.  All the doctors around us are in fact homeopathic doctors.  That makes sense since homeopathy started in Germany.  However, when I'm flat on my back sick, the last thing I want is some person with debatable credentials telling me that the real problem is that I'm an wussy American and I just need to go sit in the sun and drink some tea.  If I'm at the doctor, it's pretty darn serious and I'm way beyond the tea stage.  With the jury still out on the effectiveness of homeopathy over 21st century medicine, I'll stick to the medicine, thank you very much.  Anyway, the point is, we try to avoid doctors as much as possible.  I was not looking forward to going to one in Lisbon.  Portugal is not one of the most wealthy countries in Europe, pretty far from it actually.  One of the biggest areas affected by the austerity cuts in Portugal during the financial crisis was healthcare.  When the concierge at the hotel advised us to go the hospital instead of a doctor nearby, my heart sunk.  Hospitals tend to be awful no matter where you are.  I was already envisioning a day spent in a waiting room, exposed to God knows what, with the end result being a poke and prod from an angry, overworked doctor who only spoke Portuguese. We got on the subway to head to the hospital, steeling ourselves for a long, miserable day.  Nothing could have prepared us for the reality.

Lisbon's Santa Maria hospital is a massive, imposing structure on the northern side of the city, about 30 minutes away from the main center.  That Friday morning it was already humming with activity.  We entered the main reception hall, which was already quite crowded, and tried to decipher where exactly we should go.  Do we take a number? Do we go directly to the ophthalmology department?  Thankfully, written Portuguese is similar enough to Spanish that we are pretty good at reading everything, but we still didn't have a clue what the procedure was.  From the looks of things, we just needed to stand in line at the info desk and ask.  So we did.  Imagine our surprise when we were greeted by a downright cheerful woman who not only wasn't bothered that we didn't speak Portuguese, but was also "happy to" speak in English.  She was smiling, even sympathetic.  Never in my life has someone working a desk at any hospital I've even been to been so friendly and helpful.  Even though she said I needed to go directly to the ER, which was definitely not the answer I was hoping for, the fear of the whole situation started to melt away.  When we entered the ER, it happened again!  The woman at that check-in desk was so nice, I almost wanted to tip her or something.  Once again, speaking English wasn't given a second thought, no dramatic sighing, no stern looks.  I could be wrong, but she behaved like she actually enjoyed helping people.  She took down my information, lickety-split, and we only had to wait about 5 minutes before we were called back.  I won't give you the point by point of the entire process, but, folks, the whole experience was honestly the most enjoyable hospital visit I've ever had.  By the time I was sitting in front of the ER ophthalmologist, I wasn't worried at all.  I was in good hands with this staff.  They showed me so much kindness and compassion, never once making me feel inferior for being a foreigner.  The doctor immediately diagnosed me with a chronic allergic reaction and prescribed four different medications (composed of real medicine), promising me with a pat on the arm that in a day or so I would be feeling much better.  Everything was going to be ok.  I walked out of the hospital, heading for the nearest pharmacy in a daze, less than an hour after talking to the first woman at the info desk.  Not only was I getting the treatment I needed, it was given by the some of the kindest people I had ever met.  I couldn't help but feel relieved that of all the ER's I could have ended up in, I ended up in that one.  I know for a fact I wouldn't have had such a nice time at the ER back in Akron, it would have been a nightmare.

And, the doctor was right.  In a day, I was feeling much better.  My eyes wouldn't cause me any noticeable trouble after that.  We were able to enjoy the rest of the trip without any other problems.  I'm still on the medication now and hiding from the evil Bavarian grass allergens, but my eyes are completely clear and feeling and working great.  I have to give a huge shout of thanks to the staff of the ER at Santa Maria and that sweet woman at information.

So, we were now free to enjoy the rest of our trip, and it wasn't even lunch time yet!  Over the next two days, we walked our butts off.  We took the subway out to the aquarium one afternoon to give my eyes a break and we popped into one museum, but other than than we were outside enjoying the incredible beauty and laid-back vibe of Lisbon.  We spent one evening sipping verde wine and snacking on cheese on a terrace overlooking the incredible classic view from the Miradoura da Senhora do Monte.  A man playing classical jazz guitar provided the soundtrack as we set up for some blue hour shots.

The day started out at the hospital and ended here.

Normally, when we go to cities, I have several locations I want to shoot in the same morning or evening and we end up running around from spot to spot.  I don't always take the care with the image that I should, and I get pretty stressed.  We both do.  This time I only had one spot per evening that I wanted to shoot.  That way it could reveal itself slowly to me and I would watch the light play across the scene, shooting as time passed, so I would capture the moment that was the truest to the feeling I wanted to in my image.  That time spent watching the light in the sky go out and the lights of the city come on could be classified as a perfect photographic experience.  There were a few guys running about with their tripods, flailing around with straps and settings, but my husband and I were able to just chill with the wine and the guitar, watching the light.  It was one of those times that creating the photograph wasn't about the camera.  I had set up with plenty of time and knew what I wanted.  This moment could now be about the image I wanted to create, the gear took a distant back seat.  It was relaxing and exciting.  There was no stress, no worries.  Maybe it was the wine or the guitar.  I don't know.  It turns out, we were serenaded with music every evening while shooting on this trip.  I would like that to become a thing, please.  What I do know is that I finally figured out something.  It was more effective and enjoyable if I didn't worry about getting a bunch of shots.  I just pick one, and stay in that location, taking the time I need to get what I want in composition and light.  It was calming.  I didn't end the day wondering if I had walked away with anything I would be happy with.  I knew I did.  I had found my groove for my landscape photography, one that was purposeful and patient.  In a city like Lisbon that has endless places to create beautiful images from, it was easy to get overwhelmed.  I just had to accept I wasn't going to get everything and that if I tried to get as much as possible, I wouldn't walk away satisfied.  I wouldn't do the place justice, and worse, I wouldn't do myself justice.

That doesn't mean I only took one picture a day.  I was shooting all day.  The street scenes in Lisbon were incredible, and inspiring.  Street photographers, go to Lisbon! It was so much fun shooting I felt like I did when I first starting using a camera with some sort of seriousness, but now I had the benefit of a little more education and experience.  Everything was an inspiration.  I took more shots in Lisbon than I have on a trip in a very long time.  The more my eyes' health improved, the more I shot.  I just let the city reveal itself as we walked, instead of forcing scenes.  Left to its own devices, Lisbon revealed plenty.  From the fabulous sidewalks, to Art Nouveau doors and windows, to the tiled facades of apartments (oh, the tiles!), to quiet corners of dead end streets; all were a revelation.  If we had been there much longer, I would have needed to pick up some more SD cards!

Having the freedom to find different perspectives

Staring at walls.

Finding doorways.

Just being there, and seeing Lisbon. 

Watching and capturing it unfold.

Almost every second was magic.  I'm telling you, this city is magic.  Our last day was Sunday, and we wanted to take full advantage of the day.  The day before we turned in a bit early.  I didn't do any location shooting the night before, and just stuck with handheld scenes that we came across.  We planned a very early morning the next day and wanted a long night's sleep before.  My goal for Sunday was two blue hour locations, one in the morning and one in the evening.  The morning location was the Cais das Colunas, two historic docking posts off the Praça do Comércio, one of Lisbon's main squares.  I wanted to get a long exposure of the columns just before the sun came up.  We had to get a taxi from our hotel to the square because the subway wasn't running yet, and tearing through the sleeping streets of the city at top speed was a surreal experience without having had any coffee yet.  We arrived at the location while it was still dark and I walked around the spot for a bit.  This is a pretty iconic location for Lisbon and the traditional composition is from the ramp, with the ramp in the foreground, then the columns, and then the Cristo Rei statue and a bit of the Ponte de 25 Abril in the background.

Cais das Colunas

But, the water flow isn't very dynamic here and wanted a little more movement in the scene.  There wasn't any real wind that early, so the clouds weren't going to be of much help.  As I've learned, sometimes all you have to do is walk around a little more.  We hopped below the terrace onto the beach and found a position that I found to be more satisfying.

Dawn at Cais das Colunas

It wasn't the traditional view, the background is just the horizon, but the water lapping on the beach created the movement I wanted.  Once again, taking plenty of time at the location allowed me the freedom to coax out an image I felt was true to the spot.

We wandered north after the sun started to climb, finding rays of light beaming down alleys, interesting reflections in puddles, and watching the morning stirrings of the city.  Around 7am, we were more than ready for breakfast and happened upon a corner cafe tucked down side street.  The case was full of fresh pastries and hot cups of coffee could be seen being passed over the counter.

Here's my chance to tell you about the wondrous things you will find in a Portuguese cafe or bakery.  The star of the show are the pastels de nata, lovely little pastry cups filled with egg custard.  I was suspicious, not being a big fan of custard usually, but these little babies became a bit of an obsession.  I've already told my husband he should look for some on his next business trip to Luxembourg, which has a large Portuguese population.  I'm kinda miffed we didn't discover these little pastry perfections while we lived there.

Pastel de Nata, aka. A Tasty Revelation

One of Lisbon's historic trolleys. They look like more
fun than they really are.

After our breakfast of pastries and coffee (the Portuguese know their coffee, by the way), we headed back out on the streets.  Other cafes were in the process of opening and people were starting to make their appearances in windows, doorways, and sidewalks.  I just kept snapping away, finally nabbing a shot of one of the iconic trolleys that I had been after the last couple of days.  It was a fantastic morning, that I think I'll have a hard time forgetting.  Our favorite times on trips to cities are when we get up just before dawn and wander the streets.  This particular morning more than made up for the ones missed because of my eyes.  I was feeling ten times better, the good light was lasting, and the lazy morning just slowly unfolded without a care in the world.

The plan was to head towards the Mercado de Campo de Ourique for lunch.  The fastest way there was via one of those famous trolleys, and we happened to just barely nab two spots on one before it filled up to the maximum.  The trolleys are pretty cool looking, yes, but I gotta say that riding one is the only unpleasant thing we experienced in Lisbon.  It didn't have anything really to do with the trolley itself, it's just that every single tourist in Lisbon has a trolley ride on their must-do list and so they fill up quick and no one ever gets off.  There are some trolleys that exist purely for the tourists, complete with audio guides and whatnot, but the one we were using is part of the public transport system.  Lisbon doesn't keep the trolleys only because of their charm, but because they are the only things that can maneuver the twisting streets of the old neighborhoods.  So, there are people, like us, who get on because they need to go somewhere.  But, when the trolley is full of tourists who aren't headed anywhere in particular, it means no one else can get on.  Our driver ended up foregoing making the rest of her stops and sped on to the final one, telling everyone they had to get off there because that was the end of the line.  Thankfully, the last stop is near to the Mercado, so that wasn't a problem.  But, would you believe we were the only ones who got off?  Everyone wanted to take the ride back to the center.  Anyway, we escaped a little worse for wear and headed up to the Mercado, an indoor produce and eatery market similar to the Borough Market in London, but on a smaller scale.  We've had a thing for these types of markets for ages, the defunct West Point Market in Akron was a favorite spot for us back in the day, and the West Side Market in Cleveland is something special.  We've learned that they are perfect spots for a delicious meal, especially if you're feeling a little adventurous.

We were excited about this foray since Portuguese food is some of the tastiest in Europe (sorry, France).  When we arrived it was still pretty dead since everyone was still in church, so we headed to a small park near a church to do a little reading and catch a cat nap.  We ended up being treated to a four man football game, which, in my opinion, was far more entertaining to watch than any of the pro games you can watch on TV.

That little guy on the right had some serious skills.

When the match broke up, we headed into the market.  It was just getting lively as the church goers started filing in.  We settled into a little gluttony, getting several small meals from different vendors and turning them into a tapas lunch.  Barbecue pork, cod gratin, little clams, and the best steak I've had on the continent.  Normally beer drinkers, we opted for the wine in Lisbon.  That was one of the best choices we made on the trip.  We ended the session with a little gelato.  I never pass up ice cream or gelato when the place serves mint flavor, a rarity in Germany.  I don't normally take photos of my food, but this experience warranted them.

In our opinion, Mercado de Campo de Ourique is one of the best places to eat
in Lisbon.

You can also buy ingredients for your dinner at home.

The central stands serve up fast, gourmet meals for a perfect midday meal.

Salted cod is a traditional Portuguese food, this gratin was a unique use of
the famous bacalhau.

When you're this close to the sea, get the seafood.

When you're in Portugal, get the wine.

Red meat is recommended too.

Just a wall, but more than a wall.

Full and happy, we trotted out of the market and headed in a lazy way down towards the water and Belem district.  This area is home to the massive Jerónimos Monastery, the Monument to Discovery, and the Belem Tower, you know, your classic tourist locations.  It was where I wanted to take my last evening photo of the trip.  We walked most of the way back towards the river bank, passing more interesting visual treats (and tiles), before hopping a bus for Belem.

I wanted to shoot the Tower and I wanted the evening to do it.  Once again, as I set up, music played in the background.  There was a huge music festival going on in the park near the tower.  The area was packed with people drinking and eating.  We relaxed at the tower for hours waiting for the light to do its thing.  The salty air made my eyes feel better than they had the whole trip, though I'm not sure how my cameras felt about it.  We relocated a couple times due to the rising tide, before finding a nice sport tucked between the gangway to the tower and the observation terrace.  I wanted movement from the water here too, and found it, crashing against the posts of the gangway and the stairs down to the water.  It was another perfect ending to a more than perfect day.  Instead of taking the bus back to the center and then the subway to the hotel, we opted for a taxi again.  As we headed back, we agreed that this had been a perfect trip, including that ER visit.

The Tower of Belem.

Lisbon taught me a lot and it gave me a lot.  It taught me that less is more, more time to take in the city, have a conversation, and listen to the jazz guitar.  It taught me that an morning in the ER can introduce you to some amazing people that will add a little happiness to a trip.  It taught me that you don't need a reservation at a four star place for a great meal in the city.  It taught me you don't need tickets at the stadium to see a great football match.  It taught me that it's ok to sleep in, that it's ok to call it a night without setting up the tripod once.  It taught me that if you are willing to peer past the obvious places, great moments will happen.  It taught me that custard can be really good, and that sometimes a glass of white wine is better than any beer could be.  It reminded me that there are still places where it's totally ok and enjoyable to talk to strangers, and they don't care that you're not from around there.  We learned you can hear amazing fado just walking down the streets and catching it through open doors and windows.  It was a place full of perfect moments for the camera, which if I didn't know better I would think had been posed.  It was as if Lisbon was going out of it's way for me.  Those five days introduced me to a flow for shooting that had me enjoying the process of photography more than I have in a very long time.  It's a flow that requires a day without a photo quota, so I can get a sense of the vibe and the light.  It's a flow that means taking hours to craft a single image, hours watching light and life.  

Lisbon has my heart.  We've been to many cities in Europe, and while Paris has its magic, Lisbon's is of a different sort.  It's based more around the life of the city, its people and its culture, than it's visual aesthetics and heritage.  We honestly didn't expect that.  I knew it was going to be a beautiful place, I just didn't know that the beauty went deeper than views and squares.  It transcends every part of that city from the sidewalks, to the food, the music, the lively banter of cafe waiters, the conversations between laundry laden balconies, the cracked tiles of old houses, the sips of ginjinha bought for a euro in doorways, the action of the lively Saturday flea market, the tidal course of the Tagus, and the antics of children in the twisty old Alfama neighborhood. Lisbon was a breath of fresh air, a world apart from the one we're used to in Germanic Europe. Like when leaving Iceland, we were heartbroken to get on that plane back to Frankfurt.  I wouldn't hesitate to return if given the chance.  I believe we could happily spend our entire vacation day allotment in Portugal, if its capital is anything to on.  This is a place that changed things a little and will stick with me for many years to come.

The people make Lisbon the magic city.

To see the entire photo collection check out the Lisbon Gallery, also stop by Street Photography, and Cultural Vignettes for more glimpses of the Magic City.

Travel Advisory for Photographers: Frankfurt International Airport

I'm neck deep in my photos from Lisbon so I'll be writing about that experience next time.  For now, let me say that Lisbon really should be on your must see list.  We were absolutely blown away, and if given the chance I'd fly back in a heartbeat (and seriously consider starting the process to relocate permanently).  But, more on that later.  Today, I'm going to write about flying with cameras.  Specifically, I want to share with you what it is like flying with cameras out of Frankfurt Airport, because, well, it's a pain.

We fly quite a bit, and this year we've been flying more than usual.  I really don't care for air travel, not because I have anything against planes or flying itself, but because airports are really unpleasant places.  Of course, the worst part of the whole thing is security.  Most of the problems stem from inconsistency and ignorance, inconsistency and ignorance on the part of airport security and just plain ignorance on the part of fellow passengers.  It all starts going downhill in the line, before anyone gets to the bins and scanners.  You know there's going to be trouble when the person in front of you has three bags and is wearing enough accessories and jewelry to open a boutique right there on the spot.  Then, surprise, surprise, they (because they have been living under a rock for 15 years) didn't know you can't take that half liter of water through, or that you need to take your computer out of the bag, and, oh, "you mean I have to take ALL the coins out of my pockets?"  That happens everywhere, no matter the airport.  It's just part of the flying experience.  But, what really screws the whole thing up  is that airport security protocols are different at every single airport, there's even a difference from line to line sometimes.  For those of us who are prepared and do know the rules, it's even more frustrating when for no reason whatsoever that airport has decided to add extra protocols without informing you.  What has been happening in Europe the last couple of years and, of course, the recent attack in Brussels has led to heightened security everywhere.  Of course, Frankfurt being one of the biggest international hubs in the world should take some extra precautions.  That's all well and good, but they don't tell you what they want.  So, fellow photographers and other people who carry several electronics on the plane with them, I will tell you.

First, a little information on what I pack.  I never, ever check my photo equipment.  It's no secret that checked bags aren't handled very well, and, unfortunately, stuff does go missing.  So, I pack everything to fit in the cabin, under the seat.  I use ThinkTank's Airport Essentials bag.  If you use a full DSLR size system, it's a great bag.  If you are running light or using mirrorless, it's the perfect bag.  I've packed it with two bodies, four lenses, a tripod, plus all the miscellaneous items and still had room to breathe.  When we went to the UK, I took one body, two lenses, the tripod, and everything else I needed for a weekend away in that bag.  I didn't need to check any luggage or break Lufthansa's one carry-on bag rule (no personal items permitted with these guys).  Now, for a summation of my experiences flying out of Frankfurt airport with this setup.

Last year, when we flew back to the States for Thanksgiving, I came up to the security line, pulled out my iPad and little bag of liquids, put them in their own bin, removed my hat and jacket, put those in another bin, and then put my bag in a third bin.  I didn't have anything in my pockets, I wasn't wearing jewelry, I didn't even wear a belt to the airport.  For that trip, I had packed one body, three lenses, the tripod, and all the other little bits.  Nothing was stacked in the bag.  The lenses and cameras were oriented sideways.  I was under the impression that cameras come through security pretty regularly and that the folks working the x-ray machine should be able to recognize what they are.  I went through the scanner, then received the usual extra pat down (because I'm always "randomly" chosen for that pleasure).  Then, I exited to wait for my stuff.  I was informed that my bag had been flagged for inspection.  I was called aside and had to open up my bag in front of the inspector.  He swabbed everything for chemical residue.  He had me explain what everything was, right down to what the lens pen does. Then a police officer came up, complete with automatic rifle, to do it all again.  They took down my information, stood around for a few minutes doing nothing but chatting about the weekend, then sent me on my way.  It was weird, sure, but it was only a week after the attacks in Paris.  They needed to be more cautious after a major attack in a European capital, I get it and that's fine.

Fast forward to last month when we flew to the UK.  Once again, I was prepared for all the published protocols.  I already pulled out the liquids and iPad before we got to the bins.  I did everything I was supposed to do.  No signs were posted anywhere that they needed people to do anything besides remove iPads or computers and liquids from their bags.  Then...The fellow overseeing my line, who seemed about 17, asked if I had removed all my electronics from the bag. "All my electronics?" I asked.
"Yes, if you have a camera remove that."
"Ok, I have a camera and a couple of lenses."
"Take those out."
I did so. "What about batteries, chargers, and stuff like that?"
"Those things too."
"Tripod?"
"Yes."
"So, basically remove everything from my bag?"
"Yes, I guess so.  It makes it easier to identify."
I followed his instructions, even the one about removing my deodorant from the bag (which isn't a liquid or a gel, btw) while refraining from making a crack about pulling out the packed underwear too.  I also didn't ask why they couldn't recognize what cameras look like in an x-ray.  But, on the positive side, I wasn't pulled aside after passing through the body scanner.  My bag was a mess and it took extra time to reorganize when it was all over, but I didn't have to talk to a cop about what a lens pen was.  It was a pain, but I chalked it up to an overzealous kid new to the job.  My husband, meanwhile, was in a different line and didn't have to remove anything from his bag, despite carrying phone chargers, solid deodorant, and a few other things similar to what I was carrying.

Fool me once, shame on you.  Fool me twice...

So, last week we were back at good old chaotic FRA to fly to Lisbon.  Once again, I was prepared.  Once again, nothing new was posted.  In preparation for a little persecution from the staff, I asked the woman running my line if it was ok that I had several items of camera gear in my bag.  She said it was fine.  I asked if I need to remove them.  She responded that I didn't.  Here's my bag:

This was the first time I stored my lenses like this. In the past they've been
stored sideways.  Lens orientation doesn't seem to make a difference.

I can't say I was totally surprised to see my bag whisked down the other belt that went to the inspection area.  This time the inspector kept my bag by him for a while, before finally allowing me access so I could give him my passport and Euro ID and then began the process of swabbing everything for chemical residue.  He copied my passport information onto a form (Germans prefer paper over computers) and then told me that a police officer needed to speak with me.  The cop took her time showing up, so the inspector, myself, and my husband got to stand awkwardly together for a while watching a bag being inspected in another line that clearly contained a rather large pocketknife according to the image on the x-ray screen.  Sigh. Apparently there are still people in the world that think bringing a knife in the cabin with them is totally ok.

The cop finally showed up and I went through the most intense grilling so far.  Where do I live? Why do I live here? Where does my husband work? What city is The Company located in? How long have we been here?  Where are we going?  What will we be doing there? Where in the States are we from?  I had to explain, yet again, what everything was.  I had to turn both cameras on.  I had to explain what a rain cover was.  The lens pen came up again. There is a guy who tried to bring a knife on board and I'm getting the third degree over camera equipment.  I don't know, maybe someone somewhere tried to hide something dangerous in a camera once, but I'm pretty sure that would have been publicized like the shoe bomb incident was and the protocols would have been changed and the public would have been informed.  For now, cameras are just cameras.  Furthermore, a quick scan of my passport would have pulled up all my information and would have answered the majority of her questions.  They also would have been able to see that I'm just a woman who travels with cameras for the obvious reason- to take photographs.  But, since they'd rather fill out paper forms than use computers, they didn't have access to the information they got from me last November.  They couldn't see that I fly in and out of FRA pretty regularly.  Folks, this is ridiculous.

Frankfurt International Airport is one of the most important travel hubs in the world.  Thousands of people pass through on a daily basis.  I find it very hard to believe I'm the only one who carries camera gear through security.  TSA in the USA states that people are selected at random for more thorough inspection, they are also clear that they can inspect whatever bags they want.  That's understood and is fine.  At Frankfurt, however, there is nothing random about these inspections.  If you are packing a lot of photo gear, you get flagged.  There is no reason why camera equipment should be given this level of scrutinization.  If it is packed properly and the staff was told and shown what it was, the x-ray should be enough.  It shouldn't matter whether someone is carrying one or three cameras in their carry-on, they're not regulated.  They are not a threat.  The only bit of photo equipment that is regulated (in the States, at least) are the batteries.  Strangely, never once has someone checked to see that I store mine properly.  For the record, I do.

You know, if German law enforcement has decided that there is a reason why photo equipment should be flagged, then the simple solution is to inform the public.  They need to post a protocol.  If you tell me you want it all out of the bag for security, fine.  I still think it's a little silly, but I'd much rather have the hassle of emptying my bag than the hassle of 1,000 questions, swabbing, and automatic guns.  Just tell me what you want, and I'll do it.  So far, at least, all the staff I've interacted with at Frankfurt Airport have been friendly and respectful, even downright apologetic at times.  I don't have any complaints with them personally, but their inconsistency, poor procedures, lack of communication to passengers, and over the top policies need to change.  This level of ridiculous scrutinization has occurred before too, long before the attacks in Paris and Brussels and when I haven't been carrying photo equipment.  We still laugh about the Neck Pillow Incident of 2011.  Frankfurt Airport Security clearly has had a bug up their bum for a long time. It is the only airport that I've experienced this in.  I've never been pulled aside at any other airport nor have I had to empty my bag of my photo gear, not in the United States, Iceland, the UK, Norway, Spain, or Portugal.  I think this problem is a German thing, maybe just a Frankfurt thing.

So, I've gone through the pain, but you don't have to.  If you're taking more than one camera into Frankfurt Airport Security (and possibly other airports in Germany), here's what I suggest.  First of all, arrive at the airport with plenty of time to spare just in case you do get held up in security. At the very least, open the bag and show the person monitoring the line what is in your bag.  If you can leave your bag open during the scan, that's even better.  Make sure nothing is stacked on top of each other so that everything is on the same plane visual in the image.  But, it seems the best solution is to remove bodies, lenses, tripods, batteries, and chargers, and put them in their own plastic bin.  If the people behind you get irritable, too bad.  If the security staff says you don't have to do that, ignore them.  Clearly, the right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing.  Airport security should not hassle you about properly packed photo equipment.  Unfortunately, we're at their mercy.  So, be cheerful and respectful, and bite your tongue.  Everyone will speak English if you ask them to, and to prevent confusion this is not the time to practice your German if you aren't basically fluent.

Most of us who fly want to follow the rules and get where we're going with as little confusion and delay as possible.  Frankfurt clearly has a policy regarding photo equipment, but you're left to figure out what it is as you go through the process.  It's hard to follow the rules if you aren't informed about what they are.  I hope this post helps those of you who may be traveling through Frankfurt with photo gear in the future.  If anyone has consistently experienced something similar at FRA or another airport, I'd be interested to hear about it.