Ok, we've reached the end of the Iceland posts. I promise I'll be changing the subject next time! For this one I'd like to talk about what it is like to be a tourist there and touch on some issues I think are important concerning tourism in Iceland.
So, here's the thing. I have to give major props to the people of Iceland. After centuries of fighting against a hostile environment, bad fishing seasons, economic catastrophes, and volcanic eruptions that almost wiped them out more than once, they have seized with both hands onto a chance to finally have some prosperity and stability. That opportunity is brought on the wings of curious tourists wanting to see the land of the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption. Even though volcanoes have been erupting on Iceland since it rose out of the sea, people didn't really take notice until one of those eruptions canceled a bunch of flights out of Europe. With this rush of interest and the money it brings, Iceland began to climb up out of the hole in which they sat with Ireland, Greece, and Italy which was dug during the global economic crisis of 2008.
When it comes to how they relate to tourists, they have it nailed. I think it's the Icelanders and not only the landscape, that gets visitors to fall in love with the place. They treat tourists right. The folks in the tourism business are kind and helpful. They have gotten over themselves and accept the obvious fact that the tourists aren't Icelanders. They get that only around 300,000 people speak their rich and precious language, but at no point do they make visitors feel bad that they aren't one of those people. They speak to visitors in English, because let's face it, Europe, all tourists speak a little English. You can actually learn things from guides and placards in museums. Locals will take the time to talk to you and get to know you. There's none of the snobbishness one often encounters on the continent. Icelanders get it. And, while I'm no expert on this, I don't think this attitude is going to endanger the Icelandic language. They are proud and curate their culture with care. They preserve their manuscripts and sagas. They read and write far more than most westerners. One in ten people in Iceland publishes a book. Since I can't seem to find too many of those books in English, I think, for now, Icelandic is safe.
Over and over, we were struck by how relaxed people were. The hospitality combined with this phlegmatic attitude imparts a feeling to the visitor that they are not only welcome, but that they are included in a way of life. We came home feeling more relaxed and recharged then we've been after a trip in a long time. Despite all this go-with-the-flowness, they've crafted a remarkably streamlined way to get visitors to where they need to go easily and on time. Once again we were struck by how different the travel experience is in Iceland from the typical one on the European continent, where information services are sketchy, trains run notoriously late, and airlines go on strike multiple times a year. Our experience in Iceland led us to believe that unless there's been some sort of natural intervention, tourism services do what they promise and transport runs on time. Finally, finally, you can enjoy your trip without having to worry that the bus didn't show up, that a business just decided to close for the week without warning, and that none of the restaurants answer the phone. Combine all that with people who want to communicate with you and a landscape that is downright jaw dropping, and you have discovered the perfect place to take a trip.
Now, here's the problem: there's a real risk that Iceland is too good at the tourism industry. Now that they've found a way to create jobs and bring in capital that doesn't look like it's going anywhere for a while, there's a strong chance it will be taken too far. I would hate to see Iceland end up in a situation similar to Nepal's, where one disaster derails their economy. Of course, of more pressing concern is the affect all these visitors are having on the environment. According to what we were told, the average for 2015 was 4 tourists for every one Icelander. They're expecting even more in 2016. Of course, we were there during a holiday weekend so it was no surprise that all the tours were fully booked and there was a higher tourist presence, but one of our guides said he had never seen a more congested weekend. Tourists under the wings of guides are one thing, but the ones traveling on their own are another. Tourists are generally an irresponsible bunch, and it's gotten much worse since the arrival of social media. In their quest for the selfie that will get the most likes, people climb on fragile ruins, pull swans out of lakes by their wings, and kill baby dolphins. It wouldn't take much of a stretch of the imagination to be concerned that they will start doing some serious damage to Iceland's fragile ecosystems. We witnessed people disregarding ropes to stray off trails. Some of the folks in our tour group seemed hell bent on killing themselves during the glacier hike by disregarding instructions and disrespecting the dangerous nature of giant slippery ice rivers full of holes capable of swallowing a Lockheed C-5. One member of our tour was under the impression it was legal to pitch a tent and camp anywhere you want. It is not. I think the affect that the tourist industry (never mind that of all the other industries) is having and will continue to have on Iceland's most precious resource, its landscape, is something their government needs to be very mindful of and get ahead of before it spirals out of control. And it's not just the natural world at risk. Archaeologists have already removed skeletons from Reykjavik's oldest cemetery, from some graves that date as early as 1000 AD. Why? To make room for another hotel.
So, should you visit Iceland? If you love the outdoors and respect it, Iceland is a place for you. Even though it is now one of the most popular places for photographers to visit and images of the ice lagoon, volcanoes, waterfalls, and the aurora abound, it still offers the photographer an unmatched experience. The palette is rich, varied, and ever changing. Unlike overshot locations like Horseshoe and Antelope canyons, the space and changeability of Iceland gives the photographer the chance to create their own unique interpretations of the landscape. There is no other place like it on earth. Additionally, the wonderful people of Iceland make their island just even more pleasurable. But, if you want to go, you need to go now. Don't wait. Every year more and more people pile onto this island and unless that tempers, Iceland is reaching the tipping point. It will soon become too crowded to be enjoyable. So, yes, go, but don't leave it for "someday."
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